Horseshoe Quarry gets rebolt

© Chris Craggs
School's Out (6a+) on the main wall at Horseshoe Quarry  © Chris Craggs
School's Out (6a+) on the main wall at Horseshoe Quarry
© Chris Craggs, May 2003
The BMC has now replaced the lower-offs and bolts on a small selection of Main Wall routes on a trial project.

The BMC employed a local roped access to re-equip 6 routes including Big Fat Texan on a Corner, Pale Rider, Waves of Mutilation and Megalithic Man with Fixe 'P' bolts and a new type of 'rams head' lower-off unit. These are safer and easier to use than standard ring bolt lower-offs and do not require a leader to untie and thread the 'sharp end' before descending – you simply guide a loop of rope around each 'horn' until it sits neatly in the base of the unit and away you go.

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30 Nov, 2009
I what way is a pig's tail easier and safer then a ram's head? Genuinely interested Chris
30 Nov, 2009
The things at Horseshoe are properly called RAMS HORNS (not heads), the original German is Widderhorner from Widder = ram. A pigtail (or pig´s tail)is just a bar twisted around more than 360° like the thing kiddies swings are hooked onto. But climbers use pigtails to describe for what really are ramshorns, as in effectively two pig´s tails back to back so we call them that as well! Ramshorns or pigtails are much superior and safer than a pig´s tail. Simple really. Jim
30 Nov, 2009
i think he was saying rams' heads or pigs' tails are much safer than the usual ring bolt lower offs not that pigs' tails are safer than rams' heads.
30 Nov, 2009
Is their an official line on top roping from a rams head? Not that I want to, just curious.
30 Nov, 2009
Cheers for that - simple(ish) indeed. Personally I still favour the fixed rings (as used in much of France) for longevity though I can see the attraction of 'clip and go'. Someone will have to replace the rams horns again a few years down the line. Chris
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