UKC

Honnold Links Half Dome and El Cap in 8 Hours

© Tom Evans - El Cap Report
Alex Honnold zooming up the Pancake Flake on his speed solo of El Cap  © Tom Evans - El Cap Report
Alex Honnold zooming up the Pancake Flake on his speed solo of El Cap
© Tom Evans - El Cap Report

Alex Honnold has soloed the Regular Northwest Face (VI 5.12a, 23 pitches) on Half Dome and The Nose (VI 5.9 C1, 31 pitches) on El Capitan in Yosemite, California - taking just over eight hours for both routes.

Alpinist.com report that "His ascent of the Regular Northwest Face took 2 hours and 9 minutes—a new record that is 41 minutes faster than his September 2008 free solo. Honnold then climbed The Nose in 5:59, just under six hours. It is possible that Honnold also has set a link-up record for the two routes. Combined, the routes involve about 5,000 feet of serious climbing."

You can see more pictures and a report on Tom Evans' El Cap Report Website, where Tom States:

"Alex Honnold drove up this morning and was eating a leisurely breakfast, when I went over and looked at his new van interior. Pretty cool! He mentioned that he had just done the Reg on the Dome in a sporty 2:09 and was about to go on the Nose for the link-up. That time is the NEW solo record on the route. We chatted a while and he walked off to the Nose, with a considerable rack and a rope. He muttered something about having read Han's book about speed climbing last night and was eager to see how the roped solo stuff would work for him. He wandered off around 10:30 and I soon saw him in the Stovelegs, carrying all his gear and a light pack, but 3rd classing everything..."

Honnold was attempting to break the speed record on The Nose on El Cap partnered with Ueli Steck (See UKC News), but the pair seem to have given up their attempts. The current record of 2.37 is a tough nut to crack - Steck and Honnold managed a time of 3.45 but didn't get any faster.

Commenting on his website Ueli said:

"To break the record it will take a great effort. The last record by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine is the result of a prolonged training on the route. Hans Florine climbed the Nose at least 82 times, I am looking to the great mountains of the Himalayas for my challenge... We will now devote time to other routes in Yosemite National Park, Alex has his projects and I have mine."


Alex Honnold is sponsored by Black Diamond , La Sportiva , The North Face

Ueli Steck is sponsored by Petzl , Beal , Mountain Hardwear and Scarpa


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25 Jun, 2010
I'm sure even Peter Parker couldn't manage this feat. well done Mr Honnold!
25 Jun, 2010
Beat me too it - I was about to ask what that meant. A very impressive acheivement. Just over 2 hours to climb half dome is incredible, and it's not exactly VDiff either!
25 Jun, 2010
Thats reet quick, that is!
25 Jun, 2010
3rd class is easy scrambling in the american system, 4th class being proper scrambling, 5th class climbing. I think he means he was strolling up it like it was 'a path'.
25 Jun, 2010
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