Dan Varian Repeats Northumberland E2

© Mark Savage

Dan Varian on his new problem Ivan Dobsky - Font 8A+  © Mark Savage
Dan Varian on his new problem Ivan Dobsky - Font 8A+
© Mark Savage

Dan leaps sideways on a soft touch E2 - anyone do that on Left Wall?  © Mark Savage
Dan leaps sideways on a soft touch E2 - anyone do that on Left Wall?
© Mark Savage
Dan Varian has been out in Northumberland and has repeated the small E2 Lupino Lane at Ravensheugh, for what could be the second ascent. This route is rather tricky, being graded E2 7b, with a crux that would be around Font 8A.

Dan gives us the beta:

"You basically leg it down the hill, jump on top of the two boulders in the picture on the right, then kick up the lower smear in the pic and onto the higher one - then double dyno sideways about two metres and catch opposing sidepulls."

Sounds easy to us. But did Dan think it was solid at E2?

"Nah. Soft for the grade, more like HVS 7b."

Taking a break from flying sideways through the air like Hong Kong Phooey, Varian also squeezed in some more normal climbing with a stunner of a new problem called Ivan Dobsky, pictured above. Of this new problem he said:

"I reckon the problem comes in at soft 8a+ish as an initial guestimate, and it is utterly enjoyable. In a time when more boulderers are beginning to settle for doing new link ups at old crags I cannot recommend enough going to that bit more effort to find proud independent new lines."

More ramblings from Dan Varian on this topic on the Beastmaker Blog.

Mark Savage was on hand to take some superb shots and he has been hard at work compiling photographs for a forthcoming photobook on Northumberland climbing. If this is of interest to you or you are willing to be photographed you can drop Mark a line via his UKC Profile.

To find a piece of wood that you can hang off - check out Beastmaker.

Dan Varian is supported by Big Stone

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Dan Varian

Dan is a prolific first ascentionist based out of Carlisle. He has developed many grade 8 problems in The Peak District, The Lakes, Yorkshire, Northumberland and Scotland. He is well known for his hard highball...

Dan's Athlete Page 15 posts 1 video

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23 Jul, 2010
23 Jul, 2010
Is this not Verbal Abuse Direct Start? It may or may not have had some ascents during Andy Popp's stag do in the late 90's when the likes of Johnny Dawes, Ben Pritchard, Andy, Noel Crane & Nick Dixon (and lots of others) were trying it.
23 Jul, 2010
yeah, I'm pretty sure Nick did it that day. Was it his route originally? And maybe Johnny?
23 Jul, 2010
No idea who did the FA, it's not mentioned in the guidebook. Bing. And how could I forget you were there Niall. Bing.
23 Jul, 2010
As far as i can ascertain, from a brief conversation with Pritch. It is only Dixon who did it on the stag do, there is a short article on it written by Neil in stone play, and he named it lupino lane after the 1920s stunt aficionado of the same name. It is also about as ungradeable as they come Someone has also chipped texture onto the top smear (its a bit remote for a certain cornish activist so he's probably safe) If anyone has any more first hand info about it that'd be great.
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