Dan Varian


About

© Nick Brown

Carlisle, United Kingdom
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Dan is a prolific first ascentionist based out of Carlisle. He has developed many grade 8 problems in The Peak District, The Lakes, Yorkshire, Northumberland and Scotland. He is well known for his hard highball bouldering nd is a Director of Beastmaker.

Some of his highlights include 150+ grade 8 problems, including The Rail (8B+), Dandelion Mind (8B+), Bewilderness (8B+) and several repeats of hard trad routes in a ground-up style.

Read our interview with Dan here.


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Organic & Beastmaker
View the reviews and news from Dan's sponsors.

Latest News & Articles

News posts and Articles featuring Dan

Franco Cookson on The Young  © Russel Lovett

News Ground Up Variation of The Young for Franco Cookson

Franco Cookson has climbed a variation of The Young at Callaly ground up. The stunning Tombstone Buttress was first climbed by Andy Earl and has since been repeated by Dan Varian, who climbed slightly right at the top, where Andy took a direct lin...

Dan Varian repeats Transcendence.  © Mark Savage Photography
Dan Varian repeats Transcendence.  © Mark Savage Photography

News Third ascent of Transcendence E8 6c by Dan Varian

Dan Varian recently made the third ascent of Transcendence E8 6c, one of Northumberland's proudest and most fearsome routes, which has resisted attempts by some of the country's finest climbers for twenty five years.

Your Majesty at Earl's Seat  © Dan Varian Collection
Your Majesty at Earl's Seat  © Dan Varian Collection

News First Ascents for Dan Varian in Yorkshire and Northumberland

As usual, Dan Varian has had a prolific few months in Northumberland, Yorkshire and Scotland, combining his time between first ascents, fatherhood and spearheading a new tree planting initiative with his company Beastmaker.

Respect the Rock Series Header  © UKC
Respect the Rock Series Header  © UKC

Skills #RespectTheRock: Chalk Use

There is a basic rule in all forms of rock climbing: leave it as you found it. These days I'd go a little further: leave things better...

Cleaning the line of Moonrise Kingdom  © James McHaffie
Cleaning the line of Moonrise Kingdom  © James McHaffie

News Moonrise Kingdom: New E9 Multipitch by McHaffie and Varian

Making the most of Scotland's summer last week, James McHaffie and Dan Varian established a new 130m...

Dan Varian climbing the lower section of Hobbie Noble, 8B, Christianbury Crags  © Mickey Stainthorpe
Dan Varian climbing the lower section of Hobbie Noble, 8B, Christianbury Crags  © Mickey Stainthorpe

News Hobbie Noble, Highball 8B First Ascent for Varian

Top British boulderer, Dan Varian has just made the first ascent of a highball 8B boulder problem at...

Dan climbing Amok, 8A, Rochers du Boulingy  © Katie Mundy
Dan climbing Amok, 8A, Rochers du Boulingy  © Katie Mundy

News Hard Boulders in Font & Ireland for Dan Varian

Dan Varian has just returned from Fontainebleau, where he managed to climb 21 problems at 8A or harder in...

Dan Varian climbing The Rail, 8B+, Bowden Doors  © Nick Brown
Dan Varian climbing The Rail, 8B+, Bowden Doors  © Nick Brown

Video Series Stone Kingdom Ep. 2: The Rail

Dan Varian on The Rail - 8B+  © Mark Savage
Dan Varian on The Rail - 8B+  © Mark Savage

News Dan Varian Adds New 8B+ to Bowden

Dan Varian working his new route Empty the Bones of You, before his successful ascent.  © Mark Savage
Dan Varian working his new route Empty the Bones of You, before his successful ascent.  © Mark Savage

News Dan Varian Adds Northumberland's Hardest

Dan Varian repeating The Dark Side (E9 7b) Ground-Up  © Mark Savage
Dan Varian repeating The Dark Side (E9 7b) Ground-Up  © Mark Savage

News Dan Varian Ground-Ups E9 7b - The Dark Side

Dan Varian climbs Dandelion Mind - Font 8B+  © Dan Varian / Beastmaker
Dan Varian climbs Dandelion Mind - Font 8B+  © Dan Varian / Beastmaker

Video Dan Varian Climbs Dandelion Mind (Font 8B+)

Dan Varian bouldering out the hard start to The Return of the Jedi  © Nick Brown - Outcrop Films
Dan Varian bouldering out the hard start to The Return of the Jedi  © Nick Brown - Outcrop Films

Interview Ryan Pasquill and Dan Varian Go Ground Up

Dan Varian on his new problem Ivan Dobsky - Font 8A+  © Mark Savage
Dan Varian on his new problem Ivan Dobsky - Font 8A+  © Mark Savage

News Dan Varian Repeats Northumberland E2

Dan Varian on Arc Royal - Queens Crag  © Beastmaker
Dan Varian on Arc Royal - Queens Crag  © Beastmaker

News INTERVIEW & VIDEO: Dan Varian on Arc Royal


Latest Reviews for Dan's Sponsors

Reviews from the UKC editorial team

The Vapour V, once bedded in, smears surprisingly well  © UKC Gear

Scarpa Vapour V

The original Vapour V came out in 2010, but the latest version has seen some big changes. This is very much a shoe of two halves, says Rob Greenwood, and not necessarily an improvement on the older models.

mountain boots group test  © UKC Gear
mountain boots group test  © UKC Gear

All Round B1-B2 Mountain Boots

Mountaineering involves all sorts of terrain, so a general mountain boot has to be an all-rounder. We look at eight models that should take you from summer Alps to snowy Munros, UK scrambles to low grade winter climbs.

ISPO 2019 top 10 montage  © Nick Brown
ISPO 2019 top 10 montage  © Nick Brown

ISPO 2019 - Best in Show

The annual ISPO outdoor trade show has just wrapped up for 2019. Among the many new products shown to us by attending brands, a number caught our attention in particular...

Entries within the Performance Rock Shoe Group Test  © UKC Gear
Entries within the Performance Rock Shoe Group Test  © UKC Gear

Performance Rock Shoes

'Performance' is a huge category, so with UK sport climbing in mind we've narrowed the focus of this review to down-turned, supportive...

SL Active montage  © Dan Bailey
SL Active montage  © Dan Bailey

Scarpa's New SL Active Boot

Scarpa's SL boot is 35 this year. A lot has changed in the outdoor world since then; now in its ninth version, has the new SL Active...

A sturdy shoe that should last a good long time  © Dan Bailey
A sturdy shoe that should last a good long time  © Dan Bailey

Scarpa Mescalito Approach Shoes

A robust and comfy shoe, the Mescalito should see you right for years of hillwalks, scrambles and crag approaches, says Martin...

The Maestro has plenty of flex in the forefoot, great for smearing.  © Mike Hutton
The Maestro has plenty of flex in the forefoot, great for smearing.  © Mike Hutton

Scarpa Maestro

The Maestro is an antidote to crippling downturned performance shoes, says Theo Moore: a comfy flat(ish) shoe which still manages to pack a...


Latest News from Dan's Sponsors

Annoucements direct from manufacturers

ZG Thumbnail  © Scarpa

The Scarpa Zero Gravity Collection

The Zero Gravity (ZG) family of product represents a new class of product for Scarpa, designed around a fluid and dynamic rolling gait concept and sits alongside the traditional hiking range. The core of the ZG range is a new last shape (called TR...

Instinct VS WMN  © Scarpa
Instinct VS WMN  © Scarpa

Scarpa - Women's Collection: Instinct VSRW, Maestro, Vapor, Arpia

For 2019 Scarpa has released three new women's specific climbing shoes, with an adapted fit that differs to the men's version in a variety of different ways.

Arpia  © Scarpa
Arpia  © Scarpa

Scarpa - Arpia and Vapour V

The Arpia is especially designed for climbers who want to step up to their first high performance shoe. It combines performance with a high level of comfort provided by a new, medium fit FK last, a perfect all-round model that performs in any situation, from...

ispo 2019 Footwear and Packs  © UKC
ispo 2019 Footwear and Packs  © UKC

ISPO 2019 - New Footwear and Packs

The annual ISPO trade show, which brings the world's outdoor industry together under one roof (or a series of gigantic...

OutDoor 2018 - Rock Shoes and Footwear  © Nick Brown - UKC
OutDoor 2018 - Rock Shoes and Footwear  © Nick Brown - UKC

OutDoor 2018 - Rock Shoes and Footwear

The UKC/UKH team have just returned from the final OutDoor show at Friedrichshafen. We saw hundreds of innovative,...

Mescalito Men's  © Mountain Boot Company
Mescalito Men's  © Mountain Boot Company

Scarpa Mescalito

The new Scarpa Mescalito blends the comfort, support and protection of a mountain boot with the sensitivity and weight of an approach shoe.

ISPO Final Report  © UKC
ISPO Final Report  © UKC

ISPO 2018 - Final Report

The UKC team recently returned from the annual gear-fest in Munich: ISPO 2018. Here are some video interviews with brand...