UKC

European Championships - Full Report Photos

© Jack Geldard
Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert  © Jack Geldard
Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert
© Jack Geldard

Stew Watson - top placed British competitor  © European Championships Collection
Stew Watson - top placed British competitor
© European Championships Collection
Over the last few days the European Championships have been held in Imst and Innsbruck in Austria. The competition has covered Lead, Bouldering and Speed and many of the world's top competition climbers entered.

Bjorn Pohl, UKC's sport and bouldering news editor has published two short reports with results from the: Lead and Bouldering comps.

First up was the lead competition at Imst which was won by Spanish power-house Ramon Julian Puigblanque and successful competition climber and Austrian local Angela Eiter.

Puigblanque came within a cat's whisker of topping out on the men's final route, falling as he lunged for the finishing hold, which put him ahead of his nearest competitor Adam Ondra by just a couple of moves. Virtually onsighting a route of around F8b+ must surely tire even the fittest of climbers, but Puigblanque was straight out on the rock just a few days after the comp (See UKC News) and Ondra carried on competing, securing second place in the bouldering competition.

Angela Eiter climbed extremely smoothly in the women's competition and also fell going for the final hold of her route.

The bouldering competition followed at Innsbruck, the climbing capital of Austria, and the show was dominated by Cedric Lachat of Switzerland. Cedric stormed the final, topping out on all four of the final problems in just five attempts - flashing all but one of the problems and needing just one more go for the other. Adam Ondra came in second place after warming up the previous day in the lead competition.

Austrian climber Anna Stöhr took first place in the women's competition, with the young German Juliane Wurm close behind.

Stew Watson was the highest placed British competitor coming in eighth place and narrowly missing the finals.

Just after his attempts in the semi-finals Stew commented:

"The qualification round was really good, all nice problems that climbed really well, very nice. Now in the semifinals you could tell there were two problems that were typical Percy Bishton made. The setting here at the market place with the mountains towering around is really amazing, but in this round I wasn't really on fire, I wasn't in the zone really. I could have tried a bit harder on the second problem, and on the last - I should have spotted right away that you had to match the hold. Overall though I am quite happy..."

Ramon Julian Puigblanque winner of the men's lead  © Sarah Burmester
Ramon Julian Puigblanque winner of the men's lead
© Sarah Burmester
Angela Eiter winner of the women's lead  © Sarah Burmester
Angela Eiter winner of the women's lead
© Sarah Burmester
Cedric Lachat cranking to first place in the men's bouldering comp  © Sarah Burmester
Cedric Lachat cranking to first place in the men's bouldering comp
© Sarah Burmester
Stew Watson putting in a sterling performance for the UK in the men's bouldering competition  © Sarah Burmester
Stew Watson putting in a sterling performance for the UK in the men's bouldering competition
© Sarah Burmester

Adam Ondra climbing to second place in the men's lead competition  © Sarah Burmester
Adam Ondra climbing to second place in the men's lead competition
© Sarah Burmester

Results:

Women's Lead

1 Eiter Angela
2 Ernst Johanna
3 Dufraisse Alizée
4 Markovic Mina
5 Eyer Alexandra
6 Shalagina Olga
7 Durif Charlotte
8 Bacher Barbara

Men's Lead

1 Julian Puigblanque Ramón
2 Ondra Adam
3 Schubert Jakob
4 Lama David
5 Midtboe Magnus
6 Usobiaga Lakunza Patxi
7 Chernikov Mikhail
8 Romain Manuel

Women's Boulder

1 Stöhr Anna
2 Wurm Juliane
3 Shalagina Olga
4 Bibik Olga
5 Le Neve Melissa
6 Galliamova Anna

Men's Boulder

1 Lachat Cédric
2 Ondra Adam
3 Fischhuber Kilian
4 Kruder Jernej
5 Ten Sijthoff Casper
6 Becan Klemen

photo
The podium - men's lead competition: Ondra, Puigblanque and Schubert
© Sarah Burmester
photo
Natalija Gros shows some flexibility in the women's bouldering comp
© Sarah Burmester
photo
The podium - men's bouldering comp: Ondra, Lachat and Fischhuber
© European Championships Collection
photo
The podium - women's bouldering comp: Wurm, Stohr and Shalagina
© European Championships Collection


Thanks go to Sarah Burmester of Klettern.de for the use of her photographs to illustrate this report.


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21 Sep, 2010
i don't really follow top-end climbing but got the impression that ondra was easily the best climber in the world yet he never seems to win on the competition scene. is that right? what's the difference in skillset required to his onsighting hard sports routes and winning competition climbing? is it just a matter of dealing with the pressure/less time to plan your moves?
21 Sep, 2010
how is comp climbing different to (onsight) sports climbing? to me as an outsider all i can see is that you have less time to study the route. this is an honest question btw! - i'm curious.
21 Sep, 2010
I would say it is different in many ways. For example: 1. It's indoor, on plastic. Very different to rock. 2. You are in front of 500+ people. 3. You may have to climb several routes in relative quick succession (qualifying, semis, final, possibly super final). Maybe over 2 days. 4. You have one go on one route. There is no falling off and then just trying the route next door (like you could outside). 5. You may well have travelled half way across the globe just a few hours before. And if you are Adam Ondra, you have probably entered the bouldering comp the following day, and a few days previously ticked 4 F8c's or something. Full respect to anyone competing at a high level. Insanely difficult.
19 Oct, 2010
Cannot get over how Ondra can do both categories at the same time and rank podium positions in both, absolutely incredible. He surely will be remembered as one of the all time greats.
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