Gabri's got a new office

© Moroni coll.

Italian climber Gabriele Moroni and friends are hard at work developing a new crag close to the city of Trento in the Italian Dolomites. Gabri describes it as an incredible wall of black and white limestone with 6 routes 8c or more that are still projects. I climbed two 8c's and one 8b+, and another friend climbed another 8b+. Now I'm super syked for this 9a project I bolted. This project is about 28 meters, pretty steep and has many pinches. it's a 10 meters 7c/c+ to a 10 move 7C+/8A boulder then a good but awkward rest with a footjam in a big pocket, then 8A boulder no doubt. And of course 100% natural no sika! It would be a great achievement for me to have bolted and be the first to send an all natural route of this difficulty. Unique in italy!*

Fingers crossed!

Gabriele Moroni on La Gabi, 8c
© Moroni coll.

*Apparently that's not entirely true. We got an email from a reader: "I just read the news about Gabri's new crag. Just want to say that all the routes that we bolted in the Bronx, Domusnovas (For example Marina super star, 9a+/b, and Campo con corvi, 9a) are all natural, and, like they, ALL the crag's routes."

Thanks for letting us know!

Gabriele Moroni is sponsored by E9, Five Ten and Metolius

This post has been read 4,223 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

19 Oct, 2010
That's five minutes walk from my house. The crag is a huge overhang over the old main Gardesana road which in 2004 moved into a nearby tunnel. I had a look at the wall then but it was still rather dirty from the traffic and much too hard for my intentions then (or even now). Now it is looking much cleaner. The context, with a fantastic gorge and WWI military fort nearby, make it a really excellent spot. Great in the summer but a real freezer in winter. I have been to check in winter for icefalls but while there are some they are too small to be of much interest. Routes were in fact climbed here many years ago but on the other side of the gorge where the difficulty looks much more "humane" - I even heard that the legendary Roberto Bassi had done something here. Hopefully, development will spread out and produce some routes that I can sensibly climb. As far as I know, there has been no permission negotiated for this site, which might make its future uncertain. I certainly hope not, because it's a real plum. With my own much more sedate crag developments nearby, Cadine is set to become a bit of a cragging centre for Trento. (P.S. Loads of scope for more ...)
20 Oct, 2010
I might be being thick here but what is 'sika'?
20 Oct, 2010
Glue for rocks, used to stick artificial holds onto a climb or repair holds that have come off.
20 Oct, 2010
Resin glue (as far as I know). It is sometimes used to "consolidate" fragile holds, and sometimes to glue them back on.
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest