Italian climber Gabriele Moroni and friends are hard at work developing a new crag close to the city of Trento in the Italian Dolomites. Gabri describes it as an incredible wall of black and white limestone with 6 routes 8c or more that are still projects. I climbed two 8c's and one 8b+, and...
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
That's five minutes walk from my house.
The crag is a huge overhang over the old main Gardesana road which in 2004 moved into a nearby tunnel. I had a look at the wall then but it was still rather dirty from the traffic and much too hard for my intentions then (or even now). Now it is looking much cleaner. The context, with a fantastic gorge and WWI military fort nearby, make it a really excellent spot. Great in the summer but a real freezer in winter. I have been to check in winter for icefalls but while there are some they are too small to be of much interest.
Routes were in fact climbed here many years ago but on the other side of the gorge where the difficulty looks much more "humane" - I even heard that the legendary Roberto Bassi had done something here. Hopefully, development will spread out and produce some routes that I can sensibly climb.
As far as I know, there has been no permission negotiated for this site, which might make its future uncertain. I certainly hope not, because it's a real plum. With my own much more sedate crag developments nearby, Cadine is set to become a bit of a cragging centre for Trento. (P.S. Loads of scope for more ...)