9a's all over the place

18th June, 2011

This has been read 7,168 times

Gérôme Pouvreau on La Madone, 9a+ © Pouvreau coll. — Gérôme Pouvreau on La Madone, 9a+
© Pouvreau coll.

The "place" being France.

First of all, Gérôme Pouvreau has made the FA of La Madone, a ~50m 9a+ at a secret crag somewhere in the Luberon national park. The route is a combination of two 8c+'s with a good rest between them. One of the routes is Les grand Daltons a route Adam Ondra felt was rather hard for the grade when he did it last year.
On his blog, Gérôme comments that the route is long, beautiful and hard, unfortunately the exact location is a secret...

Seb Boussogne on La directe du crapaud, 9a © Julien Nadiras — Seb Boussogne on La directe du crapaud, 9a
© Julien Nadiras

At Céüse, Cedric Lachat has made the 3rd ascent, after Ondra and Pringle, of Le Cadre, now 9a. Gérôme and Alizée Dufraisse is also close to the cigar on this one.

At St Pancrasse, Seb Boussogne has done his first 9a, La directe du crapaud

Source: Kairn

Gérôme Pouvreau is sponsored by: prAna, Osprey, Petzl, Five Ten and Beal.

This post has been read 7,168 times

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Comments

Tophe

18 Jun, 2011

What's the reason for keeping this crag a secret? Surely there's only a certain amount of people capable of climbing here so routes aren't going to get polished? And forgive me for stereotyping but harder climbers tend to be more respectful to the crags if that's the issue...

anonymouse

18 Jun, 2011

I climbed a 9a+ route at a secret crag too, then threw laps on a couple of 9bs and went up an 8c+ backwards.

remus

18 Jun, 2011

Pure speculation, but it could be access issues, or it could be a new crag and they want to nab all the FAs.

nadeem

18 Jun, 2011

mate upsidedown backwards solo is key. I did it on christmas curry last year.

Morgan Woods

19 Jun, 2011

good luck to Alizee....a female 9a for the first time in a long while would be quite an achievement.