VIDEO: Chris Savage - Progress at Kilnsey 8c+

Bristol based climber Chris Savage has just finished his summer climbing holiday in Yorkshire, where he managed an incredible ticklist. The highlights have been a fast redpoint of Progress (8c+) and True North (8c) at Kilnsey Crag (See earlier UKC report on True North).

Commenting at the end of his trip, Chris said:

"I'll be driving back to Bristol with a big smile on my face... I think the routes up here have really suited my style."

Speaking specifically about Progress, Chris said:

"I got all the moves on the route, including the crux, in a couple of sessions - but it's a real stamina test. To begin with, when I had done all the moves quickly, I thought it would only take me a couple of days to send. But I had underestimated the stamina needed so in the end it took me 6 days."

VIDEO: Chris Savage climbing Progress 8c+ - Kilnsey

Chris told us the history of Progress:

"The route was Tony Mitchell's project in the early 1990s. But it was Jerry Moffatt that got the first ascent. Tony never climbed it - he fell off a the move on the roof at 24m - very unlucky! Nick Sellars did send it in 96 or 97 - taking him 24 days over three years. Nick and Jerry graded it 8c - and they were the only people to climb it before the holds snapped in 1997, making the route harder.

Then Steve McClure climbed it in 2006 - after the holds had snapped - and graded it 8c+. And now me!

So the route has only seen 4 ascents in total, and just 2 since the holds snapping."

Chris Savage on holiday with his baby daughter Ciara (and a friendly mule!), 227 kb
Chris Savage on holiday with his baby daughter Ciara (and a friendly mule!)
© Chris Savage Collection

Chris Savage climbing Progress - 8c+ Kilnsey Crag, Yorkshire
© Chris Savage Collection
Chris' holiday ticklist of routes above 8a (all at Kilnsey unless otherwise stated):
  1. Progress - 8c+ (6 days)
  2. True North - 8c (6 days)
  3. Dalliance - 8b+ (4th go)
  4. All out - 8b+ (4 days)
  5. Yorkshire Ripper 8b - (in a day)
  6. La Connection - 8b (second go)
  7. Ecstasy - 8b (second go)
  8. Grooved Arete 8a+ (second go)
  9. GBH - 8a+ (Malham, second go)
  10. Urgent Action - 8a+ (flash)
  11. Rattle and Hump - 8a (Raven Tor)
  12. Unleashing the Wild Physique - 8a (Cheedale, in a day)
  13. Raindogs - 8a (Malham)
  14. Soft Option - 8a (in a day)
  15. The Bulge - 8a (0nsight)
  16. Subculture - 8a (flash)
  17. The thumb - 8a (onsight)
  18. Le Lapin - 8a (flash)
  19. Cold Steel - 8a

Chris Savage high above the Yorkshire Dales, on True North, Kilnsey North Buttress (F8c)
© Jack Geldard

Thanks go to Steve Dunning for the video, and also for all the beta on Progress that helped Chris!

Chris is sponsored by Sterling Rope.

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