NEWSFLASH: Compressor Route Climbed Without Bolts have posted a preliminary report that American Hayden Kennedy and Canadian Jason Kruk have made the first bolt-free ascent of the infamous Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia.

The route was first climbed by hauling a gas-powered compressor drill up the wall in 1970, with which countless bolts were placed.

The route and the mountain have long been at the centre of controversy, both back in the late 1950's and the 1970's when Cesare Maestri first claimed a false first ascent of the mountain (1959) and then subsequently returned and massacred the mountain with his compressor (1970), as well as much more recently when young Austrian climber David Lama attempted to free climb the route and placed additional bolts.

UKC hope to publish more information on this first bolt-free ascent soon.


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17 Jan, 2012
Well that really IS news... presuming its true, David Lama better prepare a pipe to smoke it with...
17 Jan, 2012
Excellent news. Ken Wilson vindicated at last! ALC
17 Jan, 2012
17 Jan, 2012
Errr... It says 'boltless', not 'free'...
17 Jan, 2012
But that's the point, Maestri didn't need to bolt it because it could be done without. ALC
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