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Jonathan Siegrist climbs Le Reve, 9a/+Video

© Still shot from video
Jonathan Siegrist on the first crux of Le Reve, 9a/+, Arrow Canyon, Nevada  © Jorg Visser
Jonathan Siegrist on the first crux of Le Reve, 9a/+, Arrow Canyon, Nevada
© Jorg Visser

Jonathan Siegrist makes the first ascent of what should be his hardest route to date, Le Reve, 9a/+, at Arrow Canyon, Nevada.

He also talks about his climbing, what motivates him these days and tiny horses.

The route, which apparently is 100% natural, looks really nice, and quite difficult. Jonathan needed 30 tries or so to do it:

Over the course of 6 weeks I'd invested a handful of cleaning days and likely 16+ climbing days on this rig. I lost track, but I probably tried the route nearly 30 times. I was failing not because of simple mistakes, or a single hard move, but because I was down-right exhausted. The upper crux climbs out a 45-60 degree overhang without pause for over 20 moves, finishing with dramatic movement through crazy holds at it's steepest point.

Le Reve took twice the effort of any route I've done save maybe one of my first 5.14s. It seems silly to imagine calling this route 9a right alongside climbs that I did in a matter of 4, 5, or 6 days. However, I also feel unqualified to propose that this route is worthy of the 5.15 grade, seeing in that I've never so much as touched a route of said difficulty.

For the full story of the ascent, check out Jonathan's blog.

Jonathan Siegrist is sponsored by Maxim Ropes, La Sportiva, Arc'teryx, Metolius and Climb On


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29 Feb, 2012
Point 1: Its strange to here a route being preclaimed as 100% natural when it has bolts in it Point 2: If the route gets extra quality points for not having chipped or modified holds (which is what i assume he means by 100% natural) then it make me wonder how many US routes are manufactured. Confusing
29 Feb, 2012
He means natural holds. It's a given that bolts are drilled and are quite acceptable by most. Many hard routes of that grade all over the world, Europe, USA etc have artificial or modified holds. This happens less these days. Jonathan was making the distinction that this particular route has had no hold modification, contrasting to the hard routes at the nearby Hood at Mt. Charleston that is a chipped/drilled fest. I've been to both areas, in fact both, Arrow Canyon and The Hood are covered in the Rockfax guidebook Islands in the Sky ( http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/all/las-vegas-limestone-islands-in-the-sky/ )
29 Feb, 2012
I wouldn't worry about it too much, just enjoy the free video and get out this weekend.
29 Feb, 2012
Looks awesome. Very impressive! There's another nice video of him on some route called New World Order that popped up as an option once I had finished watching that one. Worth a look.
29 Feb, 2012
Really good footage, you really get an idea of just how hard it is.
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