Katy Whittaker Repeats The Angel's Share

© Nick Brown
Angel's Share  © Nick Brown
Angel's Share
© Nick Brown

Katy Whittaker in America  © Ryan Pasquill
Katy Whittaker in America
© Ryan Pasquill
Sheffield based climber Katy Whittaker has repeated the Black Rocks slab of The Angel's Share.

The route, originally graded E8 7a by first acensionist Johnny Dawes, is a blank and protectionless slab of gritstone and was first climbed back in 1994 without bouldering mats.

Protection methods have moved on, and 8m high routes like this can be made much safer with a stack of bouldering mats, and it is in this ground-up bouldering style that Katy climbed the route, taking several falls from near the top.

Climbed in this style the routes weighs in at around highball Font 7C, and features very tenuous and smeary slab climbing high above the ground.

Katy's ascent comes not long after she became one of a very select group of women to have climbed an 8b sport route in the UK. Katy climbed the extremely crimpy and technical limestone route of Love Amongst the Butterflies at Cheedale in the Peak District last autumn.

Katy Whittaker is sponsored by Arc'teryx, Five Ten

NB: The photo above is of Michele Caminati climbing The Angel's Share and was taken by Nick Brown of Outcrop Films.

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I began climbing before I can even remember, it is just one of those things I have always done. Coming from a keen climbing family my brother and I had no choice in the matter! I grew up in the Peak District and the...

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28 Feb, 2012
A rather sweeping statement "protection methods have moved on"! And regarding: "Climbed in this style the routes weighs in at around highball Font 7C, and features very tenuous and smeary slab climbing high above the ground." ..the obvious response is surely: "but not so high above a stack of mats". The limited number of ascents The Angel's Share has received could very well reflect the fact that at least some people wish to preserve the challenge of the original route.
28 Feb, 2012
Should we apply the same principle to, say, Napes Needle?
28 Feb, 2012
yes and. . . nice one Katy
28 Feb, 2012
I did a new slab route the other day that i named "The Angel's Chair" weighing in at a hefty E0 5c. I did it without mats.
28 Feb, 2012
I dont think mats are going to help much on NN.
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