McHaffie Repeats Long Hope Main Pitch

James McHaffie has made a lightening fast repeat of the crux pitch of The Long Hope Route, Hoy, Scotland.

The Long Hope Route Direct E10 6c - Topo, 209 kb
The Long Hope Route Direct E10 6c - Topo
© Photo: Mark Reeves, Topo: Jack Geldard

James McHaffie in Margalef, Spain, 116 kb
James McHaffie in Margalef, Spain
Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC, Aug 2011
© Jack Geldard
This huge sandstone cliff shot to fame last year when Dave MacLeod free climbed the headwall pitch, a route that was the focus of the excellent film The Long Hope Route, by Hotaches.

The original route was first climbed over several days with substantial aid by Oliver Hill and Ed Drummond, and was subsequently climbed free by Dave Turnbull and John Arran with a slight variation, but the unfreed steep central hanging headwall was what attracted MacLeod for his first ascent, and it was this headwall that also attracted McHaffie.

James climbed the headwall pitch after abseiling in to check it out. He successfully climbed it on his third lead attempt, but success was almost much faster - his first effort on lead saw him at the final moves, but a foot slip sent him falling before he reached the belay.

James said the route was 'ace' and although he doesn't have the time to do the whole route this trip, he said he might return next spring to climb the whole line.

More details on this ascent to follow.

James McHaffie is sponsored by DMM , Arc'teryx , Sterling Rope, and Red Chili

James has his own website AND BLOG!


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