UKC

Ondra vs Flatanger update

© Petr Pavlicek
Adam Ondra on and off an unnamed 8c+/9a in the Hanshelleren cave, Flatanger, Norway  © Petr Pavlicek
Adam Ondra on and off an unnamed 8c+/9a in the Hanshelleren cave, Flatanger, Norway
© Petr Pavlicek

The other day, Adam Ondra got really close to making the first ascent of his The Change-project in the Hanshelleren cave, Flatanger, Norway.

Petr Pavlicek, the man behind The wizard's apprentice, tells the story: 2 days ago, after climbing the first 9a+ pitch again (now starting to think again about 9b just for the single first pitch, it is really very very hard, much more than all 9a+'s I have seen him do), Adam got on the link also through the crux of the 2nd pitch, but then really unexpectedly fell from the end of the hard section of the second pitch. If the crimps there were not totally wet, it could be done...
But the northern Gods seem to like us to be here with them, so our fairy-tale mission here continues.

But honestly... In such an amazing place, now so colorful... and totally alone, with many other dry overhanging routes, maybe it is more a reward than a bad luck, at least so far :-)

After his attempt on the ~9b+ project, Adam tried to onsight an old 8c+/9a project to the left. How it went?

Pictures speak louder than words...
Anyway, Adam went back and did it a couple of days later.

Adam now continues to work The Change even though it's wet, trying every trick in the book, including toilet paper, but says the conditions add at least one grade.

To say it would be a incredible achievement to climb a wet ~9b+ would be an understatement...


Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Montura, La Sportiva, Beal and Hudy Sports


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30 Sep, 2012
What's the thing about a first and second pitch? Is it climbed as two pitches or just an intermediate lower off? Is there a rest between the two, if not, how hard is the second pitch reckoned to be on it's own?
30 Sep, 2012
Climbing action shot of the year?
30 Sep, 2012
Awesome isn't it, I particularly like the one of him falling.
30 Sep, 2012
The full line is 55 meters and the plan is to climb it as one single pitch. A while back Adam did the first part, a 9a+ (or possibly even 9b) in its own right and now he is working on the full link. What the end of the first part looks like, I don't know, but I suspect there is some kind of possible rest point... How difficult the second part is, I don't know either and it's meaningless to speculate without knowing how good the (possible) rest is. If I can find something out I'll add it to the news.
30 Sep, 2012
"Adam does not say that it is 9b+... He says that is is hardest 9b he has ever tried, maybe it could be very close to the level of 9b+. But as I know him, I doubt he will claim it 9b+, althought it is 9a+/b into 9a..."
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