UKC

Tokoyo, 8C, by Toru Nakajima

© Nakajima coll.

Toru Nakajima, 19, gave himself the best possible Christmas gift by making the third ascent of Dai Koyamada's Tokoyo, 8C, at Kasagi, Japan.

Toru Nakajima on Tokoyo, 8C, Kasagi, Japan  © Nakajima coll.
Toru Nakajima on Tokoyo, 8C, Kasagi, Japan
© Nakajima coll.

Dai put up the problem in November last year calling it his best problem ever.

The second ascent was made by a Japanese climber who wishes to remain anonymous.

I'll try to find out more about this and update the news shortly.

I made an interview with Toru which was published just a couple of weeks ago.


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One of the strongest, most gifted climbers in the world. Toru can do it all; from hard grit ascents in the middle of summer, repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, hard sport climbing and even...

Toru's Athlete Page 12 posts 2 videos



24 Dec, 2012
Congrats, Toru! Sounds like the best Christmas present ever! :) Any idea who did the second ascent and when? I haven't heard any news about it prior to this post. Ps. The video (https://vimeo.com/44600835 , 2:07 ->) of the first ascent can be seen on the Eternally DVD.
27 Dec, 2012
The thing in this news item that I am most interested in is why did the second asenscionist not claim it? Does this person climb for fun and not publicity? Did they have to trespass to do the climb? Did he pull a sickie from work and not want to get found out and sacked?
3 Jan, 2013
//vimeo.com/56587222
4 Jan, 2013
Interesting, the title of the video now states "Toru Nakajima sends Tokoyo V14".
4 Jan, 2013
Seems a new sequence has been found making it V14 instead of V15. Dai writes about it in his online dairy.
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