Lucid Dreaming, F8C, by Toru Nakajima

© Toru Nakajima coll.

On his third trip to Bishop, and after specialized training, Toru Nakajima has managed to make the 4th ascent of Paul Robinson's Lucid Dreaming (V15), F8C.

Toru Nakajima on Lucid Dreaming, ~8C, Bishop, CA  © Toru Nakajima coll.
Toru Nakajima on Lucid Dreaming, ~8C, Bishop, CA
© Toru Nakajima coll.

Paul made the first ascent in late March 2010, and it has since been repeated by Daniel Woods and Alex Megos. Initially, ~8C+ was suggested, but Paul changed his mind long before Daniel made the 2nd ascent.

After 16days efforts, three seasons, finally I did my long standing project Lucid Dreaming!! We arrived in Bishop the15th but rain kept us inside until yeasterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, I realized I could check the holds and my condition on everything.

We walked and laughed loads because of the heavy snow this January. I cleaned up the holds, placed the mats, and practiced the crux move like last year. I realized I could do the crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I could complete this problem and had to do it now.

I started from the beginning, caught the glassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while on my way to the top, or even when I descended to the ground.

I paid enormous energy and time, I felt a heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it easier than I expected.

I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. Maybe I have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!! Now it's time to go next thing. There are so many things I wanted do after Lucid Dreaming.

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One of the strongest, most gifted climbers in the world. Toru can do it all; from hard grit ascents in the middle of summer, repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, hard sport climbing and even...

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20 Feb, 2017
Having seen this guy climb years ago at a BMC International meet and some of the stuff he did on Grit, he certainly has the head for this and although he was strong then, he is now truly world class. Be good to see him come back to the UK again.
20 Feb, 2017
Indeed. Particularly this: I realized I could do the crux move far easier than last year. Very impressive.
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