UKC

Lucid Dreaming, F8C, by Toru Nakajima

© Toru Nakajima coll.

On his third trip to Bishop, and after specialized training, Toru Nakajima has managed to make the 4th ascent of Paul Robinson's Lucid Dreaming (V15), F8C.

Toru Nakajima on Lucid Dreaming, ~8C, Bishop, CA  © Toru Nakajima coll.
Toru Nakajima on Lucid Dreaming, ~8C, Bishop, CA
© Toru Nakajima coll.

Paul made the first ascent in late March 2010, and it has since been repeated by Daniel Woods and Alex Megos. Initially, ~8C+ was suggested, but Paul changed his mind long before Daniel made the 2nd ascent.

After 16days efforts, three seasons, finally I did my long standing project Lucid Dreaming!! We arrived in Bishop the15th but rain kept us inside until yeasterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, I realized I could check the holds and my condition on everything.

We walked and laughed loads because of the heavy snow this January. I cleaned up the holds, placed the mats, and practiced the crux move like last year. I realized I could do the crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I could complete this problem and had to do it now.

I started from the beginning, caught the glassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while on my way to the top, or even when I descended to the ground.

I paid enormous energy and time, I felt a heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it easier than I expected.

I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. Maybe I have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!! Now it's time to go next thing. There are so many things I wanted do after Lucid Dreaming.


This post has been read 7,960 times

Return to Latest News


One of the strongest, most gifted climbers in the world. Toru can do it all; from hard grit ascents in the middle of summer, repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, hard sport climbing and even...

Toru's Athlete Page 11 posts 2 videos


Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC porter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

20 Feb, 2017
Having seen this guy climb years ago at a BMC International meet and some of the stuff he did on Grit, he certainly has the head for this and although he was strong then, he is now truly world class. Be good to see him come back to the UK again.
20 Feb, 2017
Indeed. Particularly this: I realized I could do the crux move far easier than last year. Very impressive.
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest