UKC

Jacob Cook Ticks His Way Through Ilkley Testpieces

© Alistair Brash

Jacob Cook on his flash ascent of the hard and high Cindy Crawford 7C, Ilkley  © Alistair Brash
Jacob Cook on his flash ascent of the hard and high Cindy Crawford 7C, Ilkley
© Alistair Brash

Since his ascent of The New Statesman, E8 7a, Leeds resident Jacob Cook has recently been quickly working his way through the big ticks at Ilkley in good style. Ticks include; Cindy Crawford, highball 7C/E7, Desperate Dan, E6 6b, and Guillotine, E6 6b.

First, and most significantly, Jacob made the first flashed ascent and perhaps third overall ascent of John Dunne's Cindy Crawford, 7C/E7. John Dunne made the first ascent in 2000 and due to the difficulty and height of the route, it had repelled all potential suitors until earlier this year, Dave Sutcliffe made what is considered by most to be the second ascent of the line, ground-up (UKC News Report). Jake flashed the highball on the 17th November, commenting on his blog:

"It was one of those rare moments in climbing where everything falls into place and hard moves feel effortless. I wasn't concentrating on anything really, how high I was off the ground, how small the holds were, exactly what sequence I was going to use, success, failure... It all just faded into the background. Until everything flashed back to reality and I was cutting loose with my right hand holding a green sloper on the lip of the boulder. Deep breaths. Take it easy. Over the top. A perfect climbing experience."

Since Jacob's ascent, David Mason made the fourth ascent ground-up and Jordan Buys flashed the fifth ascent, showing the problem is finally getting the attention it deserves. 

You can see a video of David's ascent here

Jacob then returned to Ilkley a week or two later, and made a ground up ascent of the classic Ron fawcett arete; Desperate Dan and also made a headpoint ascent of the Livesey arete; Guillotine E6 6b, on the same day.

Commenting on his UKC Logbook Jacob said of Desperate Dan: "Second go, ground up above pads, quite scary falling off tickling the pocket!" and of Guillotine; "Green, Slimy and Scary! Would not like to fall off this one".

Here is a video of Jacob recreating his flashed ascent of Cindy Crawford:

Here is a video of Jacob climbing Desperate Dan and Guillotine:

 

Jacob Cook is sponsored by: Scarpa and Edelweiss


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9 Dec, 2013
Nice ones. Conditions look pretty shite. Like the bloke holding up a golf club. jcm
9 Dec, 2013
What a beast.
9 Dec, 2013
Now imagine Ron doing first ascent of DD without the pads and (I think) in EBs.
9 Dec, 2013
Is this really news these routes are decades old I headpointed Guillotine 20 years ago my mates dave kells and dave ormerod told me it wasnt a proper ascent so me feeling discredited they both soloed it one onsight the other flash above a bloody beer mat! noted Kells also onsight soloed desperate dan above a beer mat with subsequent ascents of death watch E7 snap decision E7, bald pate super direct E6. oh and as for cindy crawford think quite a few of us had done those exact same moves but always chickened out at the top and ended up going right why? we never had any mats. anyhow not trying to say these arent good achievments just not really headline news! or am I wrong?
9 Dec, 2013
a bloody beer mat??! give me strength, my well 'ard mate climbed it above a single piece of A5 paper!
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