Boswell and Robertson: 2nd Winter Ascent of Culloden IX/9

On Saturday 13th December Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson kicked off their Scottish winter season early by making the second winter ascent of Culloden IX/9 at  Creag an Dubh Loch.

With deep snow on the approach, Greg and Guy made the two and a half hour slog without a specific goal in mind, preferring instead to see what conditions allowed for before choosing Culloden IX/9The route was first climbed by Ian Small, Gordon Lennox and Tony Stone a few years ago and involves three pitches followed by a final easier exit pitch.

Guy on pitch one of Culloden, 101 kb
Guy on pitch one of Culloden
© Guy Robertson

Greg commented in his blog: "Guy offered me the crux second pitch, which I gratefully accepted, so he took the first and third up the big steep face of the broad terrace wall. He swiftly dispatched the first pitch with little struggle and after I had seconded up, it was good to see that the route was going to pack it in."

Greg seconding on pitch one of Culloden
© Guy Robertson

The crux second pitch, according to Greg, was "worthy of outstanding status", and despite getting an axe stuck on the committing third pitch, the pair completed the route, claiming the second winter ascent and simultaneously climbing the hardest winter route in Scotland so far this season.

Guy reaching the belay below the 3rd pitch of Culloden, 88 kb
Guy reaching the belay below the 3rd pitch of Culloden
© Greg Boswell

Greg is keen to keep up his run of good form, having recently flashed M11 and competed in the Red Bull White Cliffs drytooling competition.

He commented: "All in all it was awesome to get out in the snowy hills again, especially when my last winter season ended a little abruptly due to injury, but everything seems to be good now, so watch this space for more winter antics and updates."

Read more on Greg's blog.


Greg is sponsored by: Big Tree Campervans, Deuter, Grivel, Mountain Boot Company, Outdoor Research and Scarpa

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