Kirkpatrick and Muskett Currently on Matterhorn North Face

The duo of Andy Kirkpatrick and Calum Muskett are (as far as we know) currently on the ice-encrusted north face of the Matterhorn in Switzerland, after a long untracked approach in fresh snow.



The pair have been coy about which route they are attempting, but with a skill set between them that includes extreme aid soloing (Kirkpatrick) and E9 trad climbing (Muskett), we are putting our money on an attempt at the Zmutt Nose (Gogna-Cerruti Route). This seldom repeated, desperate and direct route involves both high standard free climbing and some sections of aid.



We are guessing the pair are going for this climb because back in early October (when conditions were a lot more summery!) it had a repeat - perhaps only the seventh since the first ascent back in 1969 - by the Italian trio François Cazzanelli, Mark Farina and Marco Majori.

Whatever the route these two are attempting we wish them the best of luck, and you can follow their progress on Twitter (unless the climbing gets too hard or they run out of phone battery) and we'll bring you an update after the ascent.

We have another excellent article from Andy K coming up on UKC tomorrow - ten tips on how to stay warm in the winter - let's hope he has shared that wisdom with Calum Muskett prior to this attempt!

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Calum Muskett
North Wales

Calum was born and brought up on the very edge of the Carneddau mountain range, a simple fact which has been hugely influential in his development as a climber. Calum has known the hills and mountains of North Wales since...

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