UKC

The Ticklist: #34 Hard Trad First Ascents and Repeats

© David Postelt

A quiet week with some hard trad going down...

New Profile Wall 8a+ trad crack by Pete Whittaker

Pete Whittaker has made the first ascent of a new line on Profilveggen in Rogaland, Norway, which goes at 8a+ and has been named Feta Kake. The line includes a reachy 'cartwheel' move, a burly dihedral and a 'delicate' offwidth, as Pete described it. Last year, Pete completed every line on the wall, which is home to the famous Recovery Drink 8c+ (trad).

New Craig Dorys E7 by Bullock and Lovatt

Mick Lovatt and Nick Bullock have added a new two-pitch E7 (6b, 6a) to their beloved Craig Dorys on the Lleyn Peninsula. Named 'Now we're Suckin' Diesel', the line follows steep terrain up the Little Ug wall. Since Dorys is notoriously chossy, Mick told DMM that for the belay ledge he recommends "Placing as many [cams] as you can stuff in the dirty breaks at the back of it". Mick also added a new E7 to Rhoscolyyn's Painted Wall the previous day, called Sunning the 4th Eye.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by DMM (@dmm_wales)

First repeat of Dinas in the Oven E7 6b by Calum Muskett 

Calum Muskett has made the second ascent of Nick Dixon's Dinas in the Oven on Clogwyn Du'r Arddu. The line was first climbed in 1988 and waited 33 years for a repeat. 


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