UKC

Chimera Extension: New 8c link for Ellis Butler-Barker

On Tuesday 3rd February 18 year-old Ellis Butler-Barker completed a new 8c link-up at Anstey's Cove called Chimera Extension. The line follows Chimera 8b+ and then continues up the top section of Tuppence Ha'penny 8b+. 

The route was a long-term project for Ellis, having worked on it last year over three sessions but lacking the endurance to complete it. Returning last week, he managed the climb in two sections and felt ready to start serious redpoint attempts. Breaking it down into a V9 boulder problem at the start which then runs into an 8b+ route, Ellis described the project as his favourite route at Anstey's Cove and a stepping stone in his climbing:

"There was one move which I came quite close to dropping but I pulled through to clip the chains of what was to be my longest project yet. It took 5 full sessions of trying and 9 redpoint attempts to get me up this so finally finishing it was amazing for me and this leads perfectly on to my next project."

Chimera Extension 8c: Another of Ellis' first ascents at Anstey's  © Tom Bunn
Chimera Extension 8c: Another of Ellis' first ascents at Anstey's
© Tom Bunn

His next project? Brian 8c+, also at Anstey's. Watch this space!

Read more about the route on Ellis' blog.


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I grew up with a background in sport, competing in gymnastics and then rugby from an early age. I got into climbing when I was around 14 or 15. Straight away I knew that I was in love with the sport, I bought some shoes...

Ellis's Athlete Page 16 posts 1 video


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6 Feb, 2015
Did anyone else laugh at that? Surely single digits isn't really trying... :)
6 Feb, 2015
It took me more than that to do my first 7a.
6 Feb, 2015
This is a nails link for sure, nice one Ellis!
6 Feb, 2015
It's the middle of the coldest spell of the winter, and it is winter down here in Torquay this week, and the young lad has stripped off down to his waist! I don't even expose bare flesh at the wall, and that's indoors and heated to 70+ degrees! I know all about this better friction when it's cold but flashing the torso, how does that help get up what must be a very hard problem indeed? Now perhaps if I strip off my top next time at the crag instead of donning another 15 tog Everest duvet, then I might just manage that E1 I've been after for so long. Brrrr.....!
6 Feb, 2015
Haha! That photo was from last summer I think.
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