UKC

Papichulo, 9a+, by Magnus Midtbø

Magnus Midtbø having done Papichulo, 9a+, Oliana, Spain, 67 kb
Magnus Midtbø having done Papichulo, 9a+, Oliana, Spain
© Henning Wang/MadSkillz Media

Magnus Midtbø has repeated Chris Sharma's Papichulo, 9a+, at Oliana, Spain.

From his Instagram:

SENT PAPICHULO!!! Such an epic send! It rained on and off the whole day. Really humid and started raining really hard at the top slab. A real battle, where I many times thought I would loose! But it doesn't matter now, because it's DONE!

According to photographer Henning Wang, the conditions were in fact far from ideal:

It was pouring down and I couldn't see anything through my glasses or on the camera display. Just happy it didn't die on me!
Epic ascent. The route was dry, except for the last three meters, which are quite easy, but no wind and 100% humidity. Miserable conditions really...

Also, it was Magnus' third day on, but with a hopeless weather forecast and only a couple of days left he really didn't have much of a choice.

Normally, he doesn't show much emotion, but this time he did. A lot.

This must already be the best year by far when it comes to repeats of hard routes in Spain!
Jakob Schubert, Sachi Amma and Chris Sharma have climbed 9b and harder, and several other climbers have also done 9a+'s, even though it seems Ashima's 9a+ ascent was most likely 9a, which is still an amazing achievement.

Magnus has previously done one 9b, Ali Hulk sit start extension, and two 9a+'s, Ali Hulk extension (same as the 9b but without the sit start) and La Novena enmienda

Having done Papichulo, maybe it's now time to head back to Santa Linya and his nemesis, the might Neanderthal, 9b.

Magnus Midtbø is sponsored by: Beal, Five Ten, Norrøna and Petzl



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