James Mchaffie has climbed Megalopa 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales. The route is a tricky classic which was put up by Neil Dyer in 2011 and swiftly repeated by Pete Robins, after a close race for the first ascent.
Megalopa climbs to the end of the hard section on an 8b+ called The Walking Mussel to a poor shakeout followed by an intense, fingery eight metre section of 8a+ - offering a heartbreaking finish as the footholds turn bad.
James dropped the last move twice the day before completing the climb and did it on his second go the next day due to wet holds near the top, which he had to dry off on his first attempt.
He told UKC:
"It's the fittest I've been on sport climbing for a few years as I haven't been that into it but a trip to Spain has got me keen again. Megalopa is a great route. I think Ben Moon's book will help inspire a busy year for Lower Pen Trwyn."
In 2011 James made the historic 2nd ascent of The Big Bang 9a, also at Lower Pen Trwyn.