UKC

IFSC Boulder World Cup Haiyang: Another Bronze for Coxsey

© The Circuit Climbing

The 4th round of the 2015 IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Haiyang, China this weekend, where Britain's Shauna Coxsey took Bronze once again following her 3rd place in Chongqing, China just last week. The winners were first-time Gold medallists Jongwon Chon of Korea and Petra Klingler of Switzerland.

Women's Podium: Haiyang  © The Circuit Climbing
Women's Podium: Haiyang
© The Circuit Climbing

With three of the top female athletes missing from the event - Anna Stöhr, Alex Puccio and Juliane Wurm - the field was left fairly open. Swiss all-round talent Petra Klingler - a competitor in Lead, Boulder, Speed and even a Gold Medallist in the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup this year - proved her incredible power by flashing three of the final problems to take first place. 2014 World Cup winner Akiyo Noguchi was close behind with just one more attempt needed to complete three problems.

photo
Shauna Coxsey competing in Haiyang
© The Circuit Climbing

Shauna climbed well in the finals, topping three boulders and looking on form despite still nursing a finger injury and is currently ranked 3rd in the overall standings. Britain's Leah Crane finished 9th after a great display of climbing in the semi-finals and narrowly missed out on a final position.

Petra Klingler on her way to a win  © The Circuit Climbing
Petra Klingler on her way to a win
© The Circuit Climbing

The men's event provided equally surprising results with Korea's Jongwon Chon taking his first Gold medal ahead of experienced competitor and seasoned Gold-medal winner Rustam Gelmanov of Russia. France's Alban Levier - a young up and coming athlete who won his first Gold medal in Toronto round just a few weeks ago - took 3rd place ahead of 2015 European Champion and 2014 World Cup winner Jan Hojer and 2014 World Champion Adam Ondra. Jongwon is currently leading the overall ranking with one round to go.

Men's Podium: Haiyang  © The Circuit Climbing
Men's Podium: Haiyang
© The Circuit Climbing

The next and final round takes place on 14th/15th August in Munich, Germany.

Jongwon Chon celebrates a top-out  © The Circuit Climbing
Jongwon Chon celebrates a top-out
© The Circuit Climbing

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Haiyang (CHN) 2015

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Petra Klingler SUI 2t2 4b4 4t5 4b5 3t3 4b10
2 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 5t6 5b5 4t5 4b5 3t4 4b5
3 Shauna Coxsey GBR 3t3 5b5 3t3 3b3 3t8 4b9
4 Miho NONAKA JPN 3t4 5b5 3t4 3b3 2t4 4b11
5 Katharina Saurwein AUT 2t2 5b9 4t5 4b4 1t1 2b4
6 Melissa Le Neve FRA 2t3 5b7 3t3 3b3 1t3 3b7
7 Sol Sa KOR 3t4 5b5 3t4 3b4  
8 Yuka Kobayashi JPN 2t5 4b7 3t4 3b4  
9 Leah Crane GBR 2t3 4b5 3t5 3b3  
10 Vera Zijlstra NED 2t5 4b7 3t7 3b4  
11 Berit Schwaiger AUT 2t2 5b6 3t8 4b8  
12 Julija Kruder SLO 2t4 5b5 2t3 4b8  
13 Chloé CAULIER BEL 2t2 5b10 2t4 3b6  
14 Rong Jiang CHN 2t2 4b6 1t2 3b4  
15 Minseon KIM KOR 2t4 3b6 1t2 3b7  
16 di Niu CHN 2t5 5b10 1t4 3b5  
17 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA 2t2 5b7 0t 4b12  
18 Kaori HOSONO JPN 2t3 3b4 0t 2b3  
19 Miwa OBA JPN 2t3 4b7 0t 2b4  
20 Lamu Renqing CHN 2t5 5b13 0t 2b5  
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Jongwon CHON KOR 5t6 5b6 3t3 4b4 2t3 2b2
2 Rustam Gelmanov RUS 4t6 5b7 3t7 4b10 2t7 2b6
3 Alban LEVIER FRA 5t6 5b5 2t3 4b6 1t1 2b2
4 Jan Hojer GER 3t4 5b10 2t3 4b5 1t1 2b3
5 Adam Ondra CZE 5t6 5b6 3t4 4b6 1t1 2b5
6 Minoru NAKANO JPN 4t5 5b5 3t10 4b8 0t 3b4
7 Gholamali Baratzadeh IRI 4t5 5b6 2t4 4b6  
8 Tsukuru Hori JPN 4t4 4b4 2t4 3b5  
9 Kokoro FUJII JPN 5t7 5b7 2t5 4b10  
10 Manuel Cornu FRA 5t9 5b7 2t5 3b5  
11 Nathaniel Coleman USA 4t5 4b5 2t6 4b8  
12 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 5t7 5b5 1t1 4b7  
13 James Kassay AUS 4t5 5b6 1t1 3b7  
14 Jeremy Bonder FRA 3t5 5b7 1t1 2b2  
15 Rei SUGIMOTO JPN 4t5 5b6 1t2 3b4  
16 Tomoa NARASAKI JPN 4t7 4b5 1t2 3b5  
17 Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor POL 3t5 5b10 1t3 4b7  
18 Michael Piccolruaz ITA 3t3 5b5 1t3 4b9  
19 Zida Ma CHN 3t6 4b7 1t5 3b13  
20 Makoto YAMAUCHI JPN 3t4 5b8 1t7 2b4  
Full results

 

Watch the replay of finals below:

 


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Overall 1st place in the 2016 and 2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Appointed MBE in 2016. Britain's first Sport Climbing athlete in Tokyo 2020.

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