IFSC Boulder World Cup Toronto: Report

Following a very successful IFSC European Bouldering Championship just two weeks ago in Innsbruck, Austria, the World Cup tour kicked off in Toronto, Canada this weekend. In a competition which thoroughly shook the field and knocked out some top performers, Austria's Anna Stöhr and France's Alban Levier took Gold. 

Women's Podium in Toronto: Noguchi, Stöhr and Wurm, 228 kb
Women's Podium in Toronto: Noguchi, Stöhr and Wurm
© IFSC/Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

The surprises began in the qualification round where reigning World Cup winner and 2015 European Champion Jan Hojer of Germany finished out of the top 20 to lose out on a semi-final position in 27th place. In the semi-finals, a particularly tough group of technical problems from a team including British setters Percy Bishton and Jamie Cassidy saw habitual final-makers Jakob Schubert and Sean McColl fall short of the finals and make space for some newcomers. Alban Levier, Manuel Cornu and Jeremy Bonder of France were joined by Adam Ondra CZE, Jongwon Chon KOR, Kokoro Fujii JPN and Nathaniel Coleman USA.

20 year-old Alban Levier was on top form throughout the rounds and demonstrated outstanding composure on the technical final problems, including an impressive flash of the third slab boulder, which sealed his win before even touching the final problem. Nathaniel Coleman narrowly missed out on victory after failing to complete the final problem, but pushed Adam Ondra into third position after what appeared to be a frustrating round for him, with a few tries thrown away through mistakes.

Men's Podium in Toronto: Coleman, Levier and Ondra, 201 kb
Men's Podium in Toronto: Coleman, Levier and Ondra
© IFSC/Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

In the women's event, Alex Puccio took the lead in the semi-final round, followed closely by current World and European Champion Juliane Wurm. Britain's Shauna Coxsey - having battled a finger injury in the weeks before the event - missed out on finals and finished in 9th place. The top six heading into finals were as follows: Alex Puccio USA, Juliane Wurm GER, Akiyo Noguchi JPN, Katharina Sauerwein AUT, Anna Stöhr AUT and Melissa le Neve FRA. 

After a frustrating first problem which saw all but Juliane make the mistake of crossing over black tape onto an adjacent problem when matching the finishing hold, it was a close-knit battle between Juliane, Akiyo and Anna. Anna was the only woman to top the third problem, but the final problem decided the podium with Anna narrowly beating Akiyo into 2nd place and Juliane into 3rd. This made for Anna's 22nd World Cup victory.

This weekend (6th/7th June) will see the second round of the series in Vail, Colorado.

Watch a video of the finals below:


WOMEN bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Anna Stöhr AUT 4t5 4b5 3t12 3b9 3t6 4b5
2 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 5t6 5b6 3t6 4b6 3t7 4b7
3 Juliane Wurm GER 5t7 5b7 3t5 4b5 2t2 4b5
4 Alex Puccio USA 4t5 4b4 3t3 4b4 2t3 3b3
5 Katharina Saurwein AUT 4t8 4b8 3t6 3b4 0t 3b10
6 Melissa Le Neve FRA 4t4 4b4 2t4 4b7 0t 2b2
7 Miho NONAKA JPN 5t8 5b7 2t4 3b5  
8 Fanny Gibert FRA 4t5 4b5 1t2 4b8  
9 Shauna Coxsey GBR 4t6 4b6 1t2 4b10  
10 Julija Kruder SLO 2t3 4b5 1t4 4b8  
11 Petra Klingler SUI 4t9 4b6 0t 4b7  
12 Alex Johnson USA 4t6 4b4 0t 4b13  
13 Charlotte Durif FRA 4t9 4b4 0t 3b5  
14 Elsa PONZO FRA 3t8 4b4 0t 3b6  
15 Angela Payne USA 3t4 3b3 0t 3b8  
15 Mélanie Sandoz FRA 3t3 4b4 0t 3b8  
17 Margo Hayes USA 4t8 4b4 0t 3b12  
18 Sol Sa KOR 4t7 4b4 0t 2b4  
19 Aya ONOE JPN 4t8 4b5 0t 2b5  
20 Meagan Martin USA 2t8 3b5 0t 2b9  
21 Leah Crane GBR 1t1 4b7    
43 Diane Merrick GBR 1t5 3b12    

MEN bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Alban LEVIER FRA 4t7 5b13 2t3 3b4 3t6 4b5
2 Nathaniel Coleman USA 3t4 4b5 2t5 3b5 3t9 4b8
3 Adam Ondra CZE 4t10 5b8 2t3 3b10 2t3 3b3
4 Kokoro FUJII JPN 4t6 4b4 2t3 2b2 2t4 3b3
5 Manuel Cornu FRA 4t25 4b18 2t5 3b5 1t1 3b3
6 Jongwon CHON KOR 5t10 5b9 2t3 2b2 1t3 2b3
7 Jeremy Bonder FRA 4t6 4b6 2t3 3b4 0t 2b4
8 Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor POL 3t3 4b4 1t1 4b9  
9 Mathias Conrad GER 3t4 4b5 1t1 4b11  
10 Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA 3t4 4b4 1t1 3b4  
11 Jernej Kruder SLO 4t9 5b11 1t1 3b7  
11 Domen Skofic SLO 4t13 4b12 1t1 3b7  
13 Jakob Schubert AUT 4t5 4b4 1t1 3b9  
14 MICKAEL MAWEM FRA 4t7 5b6 1t1 2b2  
14 Yoshiyuki OGATA JPN 4t8 4b6 1t1 2b2  
14 Stefan Scarperi ITA 3t3 4b4 1t1 2b2  
17 Sean McColl CAN 4t9 4b8 1t1 2b3  
18 Alfons Dornauer AUT 4t10 4b7 1t2 3b5  
19 Rei SUGIMOTO JPN 4t6 4b4 1t2 3b7  
20 Jason Holowach CAN 4t12 4b8 1t2 2b4  
23 David Barrans GBR 3t8 5b11    
39 Louis Parkinson GBR 1t1 3b8    
45 Nathan Phillips GBR 1t1 4b8    
47 Ben West GBR 1t4 3b6    
59 Orrin Coley GBR 1t6 3b7    




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