UKC

Impact Day E8 for Woodburn, McHaffie and Twyford

© Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

The notoriously tricky Impact Day (E8 6c) E8 6c at Pavey Ark has seen a flurry of interest recently with three ascents in just over a week, by Charlie Woodburn, James McHaffie and Emma Twyford. First climbed by Dave Birkett and initially given E9, the route involves sustained climbing with a heartbreaker crux at the top of the climb.

Dave Birkett on 'Impact Day' E8/9 6c, Pavey Ark.  © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com
Dave Birkett on 'Impact Day' E8/9 6c, Pavey Ark.
Alastair Lee, Sep 2006
© Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Charlie first tried the route back in 2012 when at Pavey Ark with Neil Mawson and Hazel Findlay. He told UKC:

"I'd gone to have a pottery day doing some easy classics, but Hazel was psyched for Impact Day and Neil and I thought we'd give her a bit of team support by trying it with her. Neil did the route pretty easily and I fell off the last move. I was surprised at how good the gear was and so was keen to go back at some point to close the account."

Returning last week, Charlie arrived to find the climb seeping, with crucial holds in the middle section dripping wet. Determined to give it a go, Charlie used various articles of clothing in an attempt to dry the route:

"I spent a while attempting to dry off the holds with my wooly hat and t-shirt but the water was running down pretty persistently and I decided to wait a few hours to see if it dried off a bit. By about 6pm it was marginally drier, I jugged up one last time to dry the holds again but I was running out of clothes to use and so to spare the other crag users the spectacle of me being semi-naked, I thought I'd better just get on with it."

photo
Charlie Woodburn and his soggy tshirt...
© Charlie Woodburn

Commenting on his ascent, Charlie told us:

"In the end it went really smoothly and as is often the case, it felt easier on the sharp end than on toprope. It's a bit bold at the bottom although the climbing isn't too hard there, just a bit reachy. The climbing is around 8a, the pegs look in pretty good state and the gear at the break is totally bomber so it's a pretty mellow E8.

"I'm not really sure that it's particularly newsworthy headpointing a route like this in this day and age as its had several ascents, been ground upped and was nearly onsighted over a decade ago. But it's a very good route and it's great to do it for that reason and also nice to close the account having been on it a while ago."

James McHaffie and Emma Twyford headed up to Pavey together this weekend to give the route a go and made fast repeats after top-roping it a couple of times. James told UKC:

"I had belayed Dave Birkett on his first attempt in 1999 and had a play on it then - otherwise we'd have tried from the ground. Ben Bransby made an incredible onsight effort in 1999 when it was graded E9, dropping the final move with a hand on the top!

photo
Emma Twyford on Impact Day E8 6c
© James Mchaffie

"It has a reachy start and finish which gets trickier the shorter you are. Emma had to do tough moves on both these sections.
It's E7 6b to a break at 3/4 height where it steepens. A few easy moves lead to the crux. In a getting out of the elevator position on backhand you have to smear your feet and karate kick a foot out right. The finish is also 6b."

photo
Emma Twyford nearing the top of Impact Day
© James Mchaffie

Emma is on top form at the moment following a redpoint of Melancholie (8b) 8b at Lower Pen Trwyn (UKC News Report) and lots of trad mileage up to E8, including a fast ground-up ascent of Ring my Bell (E7 6b) E7 6b at Craig Cwm Glas Bach

Emma told UKC:

"Caff and I both top roped the route twice and then Caff cruised it. I held back a little and rechecked the start due to being at full stretch on the bold start and having it in my head that Hazel had decked out there. I felt like the top was more in control for me and I'd be disappointed if I didn't give it a go. I got a little scared on the start and probably over gripped the entire way even though it gets safer but harder. I was all out chicken winging at the top as I didn't want to climb the start again!"

Regarding Emma's headpoint, James added: "Emma lead it easily and fast!"


This post has been read 11,072 times

Return to Latest News


Emma is one of the very best climbers operating in the current British scene. She has flashed both E7 and F8a, headpointed E9 and is the first British woman to redpoint F9a.

Emma's Athlete Page 41 posts 4 videos


Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC porter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

6 Jul, 2015
Very nice effort by James, Charlie and Emma. First female ascent? It would be good to see some of Dave's Scafell routes recieve second ascents this year too.
6 Jul, 2015
Shared a belay with James and Emma, while we were climbing Astra; on the same day as the Impact Day ascents. 2 very impressive leads on what was clearly a very hard climb; James and Emma's ascents weren't bad either. I think we got some half decent shots of James' lead, which I'll upload in a bit. Unfortunately, we missed getting any photos of Emma's lead; as we were otherwise engaged being awesome on Astra. (Although we thought we were on Jack's Rake at the time :) Nice work chaps.
6 Jul, 2015
So could some kind person please explain to me exactly what "getting out of the elevator position on backhand" is supposed to mean???
6 Jul, 2015
Great to hear the route utilises pegs :)
7 Jul, 2015
I'm with you Derek, never heard this one before! I presume an 'elevator position' is akin to trying to prise open a shut lift door??
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest