UKC

Coxsey Wins Gold in Munich World Cup (and Silver Overall!)

© Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

Britain's Shauna Coxsey finished the 2015 season on a high by winning the final round of the Bouldering World Cup in Munich, Germany this weekend. Her stunning performance of four flashes of the final problems also earned her a 2nd place in the overall World Cup standings behind Japan's Akiyo Noguchi. Thousands of spectators crammed into the Olympiastadion to support the athletes in their final event of the year.

Shauna takes the top spot  © Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing
Shauna takes the top spot
© Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

The beginning of this season got off to a slow start for Shauna as she battled with a finger injury, opting out of the European Championship in Innsbruck to fully recover before the rest of the World Cup rounds. 

During Saturday's semi-finals, the GB team faced a tense wait to determine whether Shauna had made the cut of top six for finals. 18 year-old Tara Hayes of Team GB made semi-finals in her first World Cup event and finished in a very commendable 16th place, ahead of a number of seasoned senior competitors. 

By qualifying in 5th place, Shauna had secured a 2nd place in the overall rankings for 2015, with Akiyo already the decided overall winner. The first final problem was topped only by Shauna and 17 year-old US climber Megan Mascarenas, which set the precendent for the rest of the round as Shauna, Megan and Fanny Gibert of France looked to be taking the podium positions.

The enthusiastic crowd in Munich  © Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing
The enthusiastic crowd in Munich
© Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

Flashing each of the first three problems with ease, all eyes were on Shauna as she began her final problem. A flash would guarantee her a win, which is exactly what she did - a four flash final! France's Fanny Gibert took 2nd place and Megan Mascarenas finished 3rd after failing to complete the final problem. In the overall standings, Akiyo Noguchi took Gold, Shauna Silver and Miho Nonaka of Japan Bronze. This is the second year running that Shauna has been ranked 2nd overall.

photo
Shauna flashes the final problem and wins
© Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

She commented on her Facebook athlete page:

"So incredibly psyched! 4 flash final! Dream!

So much love for the crowd at this event!! Thank you Munich!"

Women's overall podium  © Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing
Women's overall podium
© Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

The men's event was left wide open for much of the final round as the problems proved particularly tricky. Heading the race for the overall title were Germany's Jan Hojer and Jongwon Chon of Korea. With only two tops securing his win, Russia's Alexey Rubtsov took Gold and won his first ever World Cup, despite having become World Champion in 2009. Martin Stranik of the Czech Republic finished 2nd and Jongwon Chon 3rd - earning Jongwon the overall World Cup title, narrowly beating Jan into 2nd place and Adam Ondra into 3rd.

Men's podium from the Munich event  © Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing
Men's podium from the Munich event
© Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

Jongwon Chon takes the overall title!  © Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing
Jongwon Chon takes the overall title!
© Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

Watch a video of the finals below:

Semi-final results and British placings below:

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Munich (GER) 2015

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 4t8 4b8 3t5 3b4 4t4 4b4
2 Fanny Gibert FRA 4t9 4b5 4t15 4b13 3t3 4b7
3 Megan Mascarenas USA 3t3 3b3 4t7 4b7 3t4 4b5
4 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4t5 5b7 3t6 3b6 2t3 4b6
5 Stasa Gejo SRB 3t6 4b6 4t15 4b10 1t2 3b3
6 Katja KADIC SLO 3t5 4b9 4t15 4b15 1t3 3b4
7 Miho NONAKA JPN 4t5 4b5 3t8 3b8  
8 Sol Sa KOR 3t9 4b10 3t10 3b9  
9 Hannah Midtboe NOR 3t4 4b7 3t11 3b10  
10 Chloé CAULIER BEL 3t6 3b4 3t12 4b13  
11 Karoline Sinnhuber AUT 2t2 4b14 2t2 3b3  
12 Julija Kruder SLO 3t10 5b20 2t11 4b13  
13 Berit Schwaiger AUT 3t7 4b8 2t12 3b12  
14 Valeri Kremer ISR 4t7 4b7 1t7 2b4  
15 Jara Späte SUI 3t8 3b6 1t7 2b8  
16 Tara Hayes GBR 3t6 3b5 1t8 1b8  
17 Johanna Holfeld GER 3t6 4b6 1t10 3b20  
18 Petra Klingler SUI 3t5 5b9 0t 3b7  
19 Natalie Bärtschi SUI 3t6 4b6 0t 2b4  
20 Aya ONOE JPN 3t5 5b9 0t 1b1  
49 Leah Crane GBR 1t2 2b3    

Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Alexey Rubtsov RUS 4t8 4b6 2t7 2b5 2t11 4b12
2 Martin Stranik CZE 4t8 4b6 1t1 2b2 1t1 3b4
3 Jongwon CHON KOR 3t4 5b12 3t7 3b6 1t1 3b5
4 Sergii Topishko UKR 3t3 3b3 1t4 3b10 0t 2b2
5 Jan Hojer GER 4t9 5b10 1t2 2b4 0t 2b3
6 Rustam Gelmanov RUS 3t6 4b7 3t7 3b5 0t 2b6
7 Alexander Averdunk GER 3t9 5b16 1t4 2b7  
8 Adam Ondra CZE 4t7 4b7 1t4 2b8  
8 Rei SUGIMOTO JPN 3t3 3b3 1t4 2b8  
10 Michael Piccolruaz ITA 3t4 4b7 0t 2b4  
11 Nathaniel Coleman USA 3t5 4b5 0t 2b6  
12 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 3t5 4b7 0t 2b10  
13 Simon Unger GER 3t4 4b4 0t 2b11  
14 Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA 3t3 4b4 0t 1b1  
14 Vadim Timonov RUS 4t8 4b8 0t 1b1  
16 Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor POL 3t6 4b6 0t 1b2  
17 Domen Skofic SLO 4t5 4b5 0t 0b  
17 Eric  Lopez Mateos ESP 4t7 4b6 0t 0b  
17 Mathias Conrad GER 4t7 4b7 0t 0b  
17 Makoto YAMAUCHI JPN 3t5 4b8 0t 0b  
29 Tyler Landman GBR 3t4 3b4    
37 David Barrans GBR 2t4 4b8    
43 Nathan Phillips GBR 2t5 3b6    
55 William Ridal GBR 1t1 2b2    

Full results

 

 


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Overall 1st place in the 2016 and 2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Appointed MBE in 2016. Britain's first Sport Climbing athlete in Tokyo 2020.

Shauna's Athlete Page 79 posts 18 videos



17 Aug, 2015
Very well done to Shauna, I've struggled to follow this season as well as the one before. It seemed to be mostly over before it started. That could easily be the impact of having had a daughter all of a sudden to fill my time. It was brilliant to watch this last competition, Shauna looked so settled an din control of her performance. "nd overall for the season is a triumph having had to come back from injury. Can't wait for future bouldering comps with Shauna showing how it is done. Well done Shauna and as you wrote on a poster for Mrsthedog and I at Kendal a couple of years ago;, "Stay Psyched!"
17 Aug, 2015
Pretty interesting competition. This was Rubtsov's only World Cup this year and he won. Even more impressive was the fact that he won by doing two problems that no one else did, two vertical problems. The style of setting was pretty modern: quite a bit of parkour style problems that are more about timing and balance than pure strength. I thought Rubtsov definitely had a bit of a Dawesian style when climbing. The Russians now have 3 men competing who have won World Cups, where most countries don't even have one. Good to see Shauna back on form. Next year's comps will be interesting if Anna Storr and Alex Puchio are back to compete with the upcoming younger climbers Megan Mascarenas, Miho Nonaka and Fanny Gibert.
18 Aug, 2015
She didn't beast the competition, only the final. She qualified in 3rd in her group from Quals and 5th from the semi final :-)
18 Aug, 2015
She did great, a well deserved victory! I enjoy watching all the IFSC comps, very entertaining, inspirational to watch the best comp climbers do their stuff.
20 Aug, 2015
Oaft!
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