UKC

C.R.S., 9b, by Ondra

© Björn Pohl

Adam Ondra  © Björn Pohl
Adam Ondra
© Björn Pohl
Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of C.R.S., 9b, at Mollans, a project that was bolted by Seb Bouin. Adam needed only three days, which must be considered unreasonbly quick for such a difficult route. 

After a season which could almost be called mediocre* by Adam's über human standards, things have begun to pick up lately.

At Wujiang, he won his first World Cup competition since Kranj last year and then he revisited the Holzgauer Wand in Frankenjura where he made the second ascent of Alex Megos' Modified, 9a+. Then he headed south to Mollans, a steep, ex-secret crag not far from St. leger, and the project.

C.R.S. (Cowboy a reaction stupide) is not that long, just over 20 meters, but pure power endurance all the way on pinches and pockets through a roof and then a switch to small crimps when the angle eases off. Seb Bouin, who bolted it, has put in quite a lot of work on it, but has decided to leave it for now and go for a slightly easier variation.

In total, the route took Adam ten tries, one two years ago and now nine more spread over three days. This is a step forward for the young Czech. Never before has he, or any one else for that matter, been able to climb what Adam calls a "real 9b" that quickly.

*Maybe "mediocre" isn't the right word, but no WC victories, no 9b's or 9a onsights. At times it must have been frustrating as the form has obviously been there. 

Next weekend, the World Cup finishes in Kranj, Slovenia. Adam has an excellent chance of taking the title.

He usually climbs well there:

2014: 1st

2013: 2nd

2010: 2nd 

2009: 1st

It doesn't look too bad, does it?

Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Beal, Black Diamond, Entre-Prises, KIKU, Hudy Sports, La Sportiva and Montura​

 

 


This post has been read 9,615 times

Return to Latest News


9 Nov, 2015
I Agree, even Ondra himself said it in a recent video, that all the top competition climbers are strong enough, but maybe they just don't belive in themselves or don't put in the effort needed on rock as when they first try something really hard, they just think its too hard for them. Would be interesting to see how these guys do outdoors, but just have a look at Sachi, he's crushing outside atm, so its a shame really that more of the comp people don't try
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email