Calum Muskett has had a proactive few months seeking out new routes in North Wales, adding Ginger Ninja E7 6b to Craig y Clipiau (Moelwyns) this week, following his first ascent of Day of the Triffids E8 6b at Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet), which Calum climbed earlier in the autumn.
Calum told UKC:
"I climbed a good new E7 6b in the Moelwyns yesterday on 'Craig y Clipiau' above Blaenau Ffestiniog. Low in the grade but great climbing on pockets and quite strenuous arranging a cluster of rps and skyhooks before the crux move. It's next to the 'Crimson Cruiser' (classic E5) so we felt like we had to call it the Ginger Ninja (although we nearly called it the Ginger Whinger!). Ed Booth was straight in for the second ascent."
Not content with just one new route, Calum then discovered an E5 next door:
"I also climbed a new finish to Purple Pardise which goes at about E5 up the blunt arete right of Crimson Cruiser."
Describing Day of the Triffids, Calum commented:
"It's a good new E8 that climbs Rare Lichen from the easier start of 'Trouble with Lichen' with an easier E5ish wall leading to the arete. Again low in the grade but reasonably safe and enjoyable climbing. James Taylor made the second ascent soon after."