UKC

VIDEO: Ice like sugar, Mt Reaper, Alaska

In May 2015, Hansjörg Auer and Michael "Much" Mayr made the first ascent of the previous unclimbed Mt. Reaper in the Neacola Range, the northernmost subrange in the Aleutian Range in Alaska via their North Face route 'Sugar Man' (M7, 85°, A1, 750m).

They encountered winter conditions and with very thin ice and many times being able to place any kind of protection was a big problem. Sometimes they belayed solely off their ice axes. 

Hansjörg and Much are both very accomplished allround climbers. Many of you will remember Hansjörg's 2007 free solo ascent of the legendary Via Attraverso il Pesce (a.k.a The Fish route), 7b+, 37 pitches, 850m) on the south face of the Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy and since then he has kept adding remarkable ascents in different styles to his CV.

Much's climbing highlight so far is perhaps his first free ascent of The Spanish Route, 8b+/c, 450m/13 pitches on Cima Grande di Lavaredo, which he made in late August last year.

Hansjörg Auer is sponsored by: Bergshop, Edelrid, Komperdell, La Sportiva, Smith Optics, The North Face, Totem and Ötztal

Much Mayr is sponsored by: La Sportiva and Skylotec



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