Another Gold for Shauna Coxsey in Japan

© Eddie Fowke

Britain's Shauna Coxsey managed to secure a second win in a row at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Kazo, Japan at the weekend, just one week after her victory in Meiringen, Switzerland. Shauna dominated all three rounds, from qualifiers through to finals, where she completed all four problems and appeared in a league of her own, topping two more than any of her fellow finalists.

Le Nevé, Coxsey and Nonaka: Kazo 2016  © Eddie Fowke
Le Nevé, Coxsey and Nonaka: Kazo 2016
© Eddie Fowke

The GB team also put in another strong performance as a whole, with Michaela Tracy coming incredibly close to making finals, finishing just outside the top-6 cut-off in 7th place. Leah Crane finished a commendable 14th in the semi-final round.

In the men's event, Tyler Landman fell short of making finals in 12th place, and Nathan Phillips greatly improved on his performance in Meiringen the previous weekend, placing 23rd and looking highly capable of achieving a semi-final position this season. 

Melissa le Nevé maintained her 2nd place finish from Meiringen, topping two problems in the final and finishing just ahead of Japan's Miho Nonaka with one less attempt. Regular podium-finisher Anna Stöhr - who has been suffering from an injury - and 2015 World Cup overall winner Akiyo Noguchi were far off the mark in Kazo, finishing in 10th and 20th place respectively. 

Rustam Gelmanov of Russia bounced back from a disappointing 12th place in Meiringen to take Gold in Kazo, closely followed by Italy's Michael Piccolruaz in 2nd place, who made a phenomenal leap from 45th place in Meiringen to his first ever Boulder World Cup podium in the space of a week. Japan's Kokoro Fujii completed the podium in 3rd place.

Shauna enjoying some funky moves in Kazo  © Eddie Fowke
Shauna enjoying some funky moves in Kazo
© Eddie Fowke

Commenting on her Facebook page, Shauna praised the creative routesetting at the event:

"I already can't wait to come back to Japan. I love it here and the World Cup was amazing! The comp wall was cool! The hold selection was amazing and the route setter did such a good job!"

The next round is this weekend in Chongqing, China. Can Shauna maintain her astonishing run of form? 

Watch the replay of the finals below:

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Kazo (JPN) 2016

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 5t8 5b8 2t2 3b3 4t7 4b7
2 Melissa Le Neve FRA 4t4 5b6 2t3 4b7 2t2 4b5
3 Miho NONAKA JPN 4t5 4b4 1t2 4b4 2t3 4b6
4 Petra Klingler SUI 4t6 5b7 2t4 4b7 2t3 3b4
5 Fanny Gibert FRA 3t8 4b8 2t3 4b7 1t1 2b4
6 Chloé CAULIER BEL 3t6 4b7 1t1 3b5 1t3 3b8
7 Michaela Tracy GBR 4t8 5b9 1t2 4b11  
8 Monika Retschy GER 5t11 5b8 1t2 3b4  
9 Aya ONOE JPN 3t6 4b7 1t2 3b8  
10 Anna Stöhr AUT 4t5 4b5 1t3 2b2  
11 Berit Schwaiger AUT 3t4 4b6 1t4 1b1  
12 CLEMENTINE KAISER FRA 3t7 4b7 0t 4b8  
13 Alannah Yip CAN 3t4 4b4 0t 3b4  
14 Leah Crane GBR 4t9 5b8 0t 3b5  
15 Katharina Saurwein AUT 3t5 5b7 0t 3b9  
16 Tomoko kajima JPN 4t16 5b14 0t 3b12  
17 Mei KOTAKE JPN 4t8 5b10 0t 2b3  
18 Sol Sa KOR 5t12 5b10 0t 1b1  
18 Karoline Sinnhuber AUT 3t5 4b5 0t 1b1  
20 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4t6 5b7 0t 1b3  
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Rustam Gelmanov RUS 3t6 3b4 3t6 4b7 3t3 4b4
2 Michael Piccolruaz ITA 3t7 5b14 2t3 4b6 2t2 4b8
3 Kokoro FUJII JPN 4t9 5b8 4t7 4b6 2t4 4b8
4 Jeremy Bonder FRA 4t11 5b14 3t6 4b7 2t8 4b12
5 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 3t9 4b7 2t2 4b4 1t2 3b8
6 Rolands Rugens LAT 3t6 4b6 2t3 4b6 0t 1b2
7 Sean McColl CAN 3t4 4b5 2t4 4b6  
8 Jernej Kruder SLO 2t3 4b8 2t4 4b8  
9 Jan Hojer GER 4t8 4b8 2t4 3b4  
10 Alexander Averdunk GER 2t3 4b12 2t6 4b15  
11 Yoshiyuki OGATA JPN 2t2 4b6 2t7 4b8  
12 Tyler Landman GBR 2t4 3b4 1t2 4b7  
13 Alexey Rubtsov RUS 3t7 4b7 1t2 4b9  
14 James Kassay AUS 4t11 4b9 1t2 2b3  
15 Tomoa NARASAKI JPN 4t6 4b4 1t3 4b5  
16 Baptiste Ometz SUI 2t4 3b3 1t3 4b9  
17 Tomoaki TAKATA JPN 3t11 5b15 0t 4b9  
18 Alban LEVIER FRA 4t7 5b8 0t 3b3  
19 Manuel Cornu FRA 2t2 3b5 0t 2b4  
20 Martin Stranik CZE 3t5 4b4    
23 Nathan Phillips GBR 2t2 4b4    
Full results


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Overall 1st place in the 2016 and 2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Appointed MBE in 2016. Britain's first Sport Climbing athlete in Tokyo 2020.

Shauna's Athlete Page 77 posts 16 videos

26 Apr, 2016
Well done Shauna!
26 Apr, 2016
Absolutely awesome to watch, she really was on another level. The article doesn't mention that she flashed at least two (possibly 3) of the problems too!
26 Apr, 2016
Are highlights available? 4 hours is a long video to watch! Obviously highlights focussing on Team GB... :)
26 Apr, 2016
Do you really have to give away the result in the title of the post...was looking forward to watching it later....:(
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