UKC

Director's Cut 8B by Nathan Phillips

© Nathan Phillips

Nathan Phillips has climbed Jamie Cassidy's Director's Cut (V13) 8B at Parisella's Cave in North Wales. The problem links 'Lou Ferrino' 7C+ into 'Halfway House' 8A and was also recently repeated by Mark Katz (UKC Interview).

Nathan Phillips on Director's Cut 8B  © Nathan Phillips
Nathan Phillips on Director's Cut 8B
© Nathan Phillips

Nathan first tried the problem on a short trip to Wales before the first IFSC Boulder World Cup of the year in Switzerland.

He told UKC:

"I did Lou Ferrino and Halfway House separately quite quickly so thought I might as well try the link. In my first session on the link I fell two moves from the end. The next day, certain I would do it, I fell four times two moves from the end. Last day of the trip meant I had to come back another time..."

Nathan returned last weekend and tried again, but struggled to reach the same high point:

"After a little change in beta I fell at the same move again. The next day, after a little slip at the start I found myself at that same move once again on my next go, this time I was not dropping it! I made the move and did the final campus to the finishing jug."

Nathan on the long and powerful Director's Cut 8B  © Nathan Phillips
Nathan on the long and powerful Director's Cut 8B
© Nathan Phillips

Consisting of thirty moves, Director's Cut is at the longer end of the problem-length spectrum. Did this suit Nathan? He replied:

"It's by far the longest boulder I've climbed for sure. I'm usually a short bloc climber but it seemed to just work for me somehow. There's no real rests on the problem, so I just had to climb efficiently and relatively fast. It was really frustrating trying the problem again and not getting to the same point, but when it came together it was a good feeling."

In addition to Director's, Nathan also completed Broken Heart (f7C) 7C+ in the same weekend and Lizard King Middle (V9) 7C at Craig Y Llwyfan.

Nathan on Lizard King 7C  © Tara Hayes
Nathan on Lizard King 7C
© Tara Hayes

Nathan is now preparing for the Innsbruck round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup next weekend and plans to stay out in Europe to do some bouldering in Austria and Switzerland. He recently achieved a commendable 23rd place in Kazo, Japan in the second round of the World Cup.

Watch a video of Nathan on Director's below:

 


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11 May, 2016
Did Jamie Cassidy retire from hard bouldering to concentrate on route setting?
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