UKC

Alex Megos repeats Hubble Newsflash

© Nick Brown

Alex Megos working Hubble in 2014  © Nick Brown
Alex Megos working Hubble in 2014
© Nick Brown
Alex Megos has made the FFA (First Foreign Ascent) of Ben Moon's Hubble at Raven Tor. Ben made the first ascent in 1990 and it's regarded as the first 9a in the world.

After repeats by  Malcolm Smith, John Gaskins, Steve Dunning and Steve McClure, and attempts by people like Adam Ondra, David Graham, Sean Mccoll and many more, Hubble has finally been repeated by a non British climber.

That Alex Megos became the one shouldn't come as a big surprise to anyone as the style of the route, with powerful climbing on small holds is exactly where Alex has his biggest strength. Remember he got his rock climbing education in Frankenjura, home of the gnarly pockets and sharp, tiny crimpers.

Alex is well on his way to climbing all of the routes on the top-100 in the Frankenjura - list, a list that includes his own Supernova, ~9b as well as several 9a+'s and many 9a's.

He has also repeted Chris Sharma's First round, first minute, 9b, at Margalef, and Paul Robinson's Lucid dreaming, ~8C, at Bishop, one of the hardest boulder problems in the World.

In 2013 he became the first to onsight 9a with Estado critico at Siurana, Spain. He needed only a couple of hours to repeat Action directe, 9a, and only three attemps to repeat Biographie, 9a+.

In total, he has made first ascents of more than a dozen 9a's and harder and repeated almost 30.

In short, at 22 years of age, Alex is already one of the most accomplished sport climbers ever, and he has only begun.

Stay tuned for more!


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Alex has risen quickly through the ranks of German climbers to become a globetrotting superstar of the modern climbing scene. His phenomenal sport climbing achievements place him as one of the most important climbers of...

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1 Jun, 2016
Exciting times! P.S. I'm assuming the FFA thing is a joke?
1 Jun, 2016
Sadly, I don't think it is. At least it doesn't say FJFA (First Johnny Foreigner Ascent) Headline should be: 'Bloke that climbs really hard climbs something that isn't too hard for him but has some history.'
1 Jun, 2016
You'd be surprised, hubble is supposedly 8B/+ boulder. Which may well be one of hardest cruxes on a route. Especially since he has only bouldered 8C
1 Jun, 2016
Whether or not this particular ascent is newsworthy, it would be nice to have a report on what Alex did on his trip to UK (still ongoing I think) and what his thoughts are about the routes he's done and crags he's been to. Someone with that range of experience at the top level would be able to give a non-biased opinion about the quality & difficulty of our hardest sports routes (similarly to what Ondra did a couple of years ago). On the one hand we're always getting the "the UK's crags wouldn't even be noticed amongst the continent's limestone" type comments but on the other hand the two top (or to avoid controversy 2 out of the top 3 - I've no idea whether Sharma's been over here) sports climbers in the world have visited the UK to do some of our climbs so there must be something worthwhile about them.
1 Jun, 2016
-)
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