UKC

IFSC Lead World Cup Chamonix: Report

The first round of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place in a rainy Chamonix at the start of this week (11th-12th July). Slovenian teammates Domen Škofic and Janja Garnbret took Gold in an exciting final where the athletes put on a brilliant performance in the wind and rain on the 45 degree power-endurance finals routes. Word has it that these two are also a couple, which would make this the first double World Cup win from a couple!

The results were incredibly close in both the women's and the men's finals. In the men's particularly it could barely have been closer at the upper end, with single points and plus points separating competitors.

Sebastian Halenke spicing things up with his striking hair-do, 109 kb
Sebastian Halenke spicing things up with his striking hair-do
© Björn Pohl
Sean McColl, who impressively competes in both Bouldering and Lead World Cups, took seventh place, 81 kb
Sean McColl, who impressively competes in both Bouldering and Lead World Cups, took seventh place
© Björn Pohl

 

World Cup veteran Jakob Schubert of Austria took third place on countback ahead of France's Gautier Supper and was beaten by Stefano Ghisolfi of Italy by only one plus point. Domen Škofic was the only athlete who managed to pass the volume and reach the blue slopers on the final headwall. This was enough for him to take home his second World Cup Gold.

Domen Škofic hanging on, seconds before he fell, 76 kb
Domen Škofic hanging on, seconds before he fell
© Björn Pohl

If the men's final had been exciting, women's final was even more so, the final three climbers in particular putting on an amazing show. Jain Kim of Korea, a veteran with 25 world cup wins, climbed beautifully, getting further than any of the climbers thus far, falling just before the final move.

Jain Kim getting some airtime...so close to the top! , 24 kb
Jain Kim getting some airtime...so close to the top!
© Björn Pohl

Anak Verhoeven of Belgium, out next, climbed effortlessly, no move appeared to phase her and she clipped the chains still looking composed and in contol. This was the first top in the finals and Anak had remained unflustered throughout, even stopping a couple of times check her watch mid-climb. After coming fourth overall in the last two World Cup series, Anak looked set to take the win.

Anak Verhoeven stopping to check her watch on the final head-wall, 24 kb
Anak Verhoeven stopping to check her watch on the final head-wall
© Björn Pohl
A cut loose from Magdalena Röck who took fourth place, 61 kb
A cut loose from Magdalena Röck who took fourth place
© Björn Pohl

 

However, seventeen-year-old Janja Garnbret of Slovenia's lead shook things up. Janja, who came seventh overall last year after only entering three World Cups, is really taking the lead competition world by storm...on this occasion, very literally in a storm. Speeding though the first section, Janja was climbing a lot faster than any of the others had. As she neared the headwall, the wind and the rain picked up and Janja really had to battle the elements on the final headwall, her small frame looked like it might almost get blown off the wall. She topped with just under two minutes to spare, snatching her first World Cup Gold.

Janja Garnbret cooly shaking out mid-route , 51 kb
Janja Garnbret cooly shaking out mid-route
© Björn Pohl

Next: Round 2 in Villars, Switzerland, July 15th-16th after two days rest for the althletes.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L,S) -Chamonix (FRA) 2016

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Domen Skofic SLO 34 8. 45.5+ 51
2 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 43+ 3. 45.5+ 48+
3 Jakob Schubert AUT Top 1. 45+ 48
4 Gautier Supper FRA 42 4. 39+ 48
5 Romain Desgranges FRA Top 1. 39 47
6 Sebastian Halenke GER 34+ 5. 45+ 46+
7 Sean McColl CAN 34+ 5. 40 46+
8 Francesco Vettorata ITA 31+ 10. 39+ 43+
9 Keiichiro KORENAGA JPN 34+ 5. 37+  
10 Naoki SHIMATANI JPN 25+ 19. 37+  
11 Hanwool Kim KOR 20+ 40. 37  
12 Sean Bailey USA 31+ 10. 33+  
13 Masahiro HIGUCHI JPN 31+ 10. 30+  
14 Thomas JOANNES FRA 33+ 9. 30+  
15 Jihwan Park KOR 29 14. 30+  
16 Sascha Lehmann SUI 25+ 19. 30+  
17 Yuki HADA JPN 25+ 19. 29+  
18 Kokoro FUJII JPN 31+ 10. 27+  
19 Loïc Timmermans BEL 25+ 19. 27+  
20 Urban Primozic SLO 26+ 18. 26+  
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Janja Garnbret SLO 53 1. 36+ Top
2 Anak VERHOEVEN BEL 52+ 2. 33+ Top
3 Jain Kim KOR 47 3. 35+ 48+
4 Magdalena Röck AUT 43 5. 34+ 43+
5 Yuka Kobayashi JPN 28+ 9. 30+ 33+
6 Mina Markovic SLO 24+ 16. 30+ 33+
7 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 32+ 7. 30+ 27+
8 Charlotte Durif FRA 23+ 18. 30+ 21+
9 Hannah Schubert AUT 24 17. 30+  
10 Mathilde Becerra FRA 45+ 4. 30  
11 Julia Chanourdie FRA 28+ 9. 30  
12 Christine Schranz AUT 28+ 9. 27  
13 Solène AMOROS FRA 23+ 18. 21+  
14 Hélène Janicot FRA 32 8. 16+  
15 Jessica Pilz AUT 23+ 18. 16  
16 Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS 27+ 14. 16  
17 Katharina Posch AUT 28+ 9. 15+  
18 Asja Gollo ITA 21+ 29. 14+  
19 Delaney Miller USA 28+ 9. 14  
20 Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 22+ 26. 12+  
41 Natalie Berry GBR 1 47.    
Full results


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