UKC

IFSC Lead World Cup Kranj: Report

The final round of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place once again in Kranj, Slovenia this weekend: the culmination of a tiring five month season, which neared seven months for those competing in dual disciplines. Despite busloads of supporters from Janja Garnbret's home town making the journey to watch her compete, the young Slovenian didn't quite manage to clinch the final gold medal of the season, with Belgium's Anak Verhoeven taking the win. A surprising victory came in the men's category with German Sebastian Halenke winning by 14 moves. Great Britain's Molly Thompson-Smith ended her 2016 season on a high with a fantastic 14th place, qualifying in 9th place for the semi-final round.

Molly Thompson-Smith climbing in the Kranj round of the World Cup in 2016., 204 kb
Molly Thompson-Smith climbing in the Kranj round of the World Cup in 2016.
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

In the men's final, a long, meandering route looked set to entertain the crowd, but unfortunately a stopper move on the lower wall saw only Sebastian reach past the roof. Slovenia's Domen Skofic climbed three moves past the stopper section to take second place in front of a home crowd and Jakob Schubert claimed third place on countback and time. This was Sebastian's first World Cup win, and a well-deserved victory after a difficult season of setbacks and injury.

Men's podium: Kranj World Cup, 171 kb
Men's podium: Kranj World Cup
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

For the women, a sloper-filled route split the field well. Former Boulder World Cup winner Akiyo Noguchi impressed the crowd with a smooth ascent to a point just below the final headwall. Mina Markovic reached the same point, but was marked with a 'plus' rather than a hold, with Akiyo momentarily sticking the next hold in control.

Belgium's Anak Verhoeven on her way to a win (semi-finals), 205 kb
Belgium's Anak Verhoeven on her way to a win (semi-finals)
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Anak Verhoeven cruised up the lower section of the route and surpassed the tricky section below the headwall, falling just short of the top. Having won all but two of the rounds so far, Janja Garnbret had already secured the overall title. A controlled climb appeared to cause no issue for her, until a blind throw for the same hold reached by Akiyo and Mina saw her miss the positive part of the hold. Tied with Mina, Janja's semi-final position earned her third place, with Akiyo taking second behind Anak, who won her second ever World Cup following her victory in Arco this season.

Women's Kranj podium, 160 kb
Women's Kranj podium
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

In the overall standings, Domen Skofic took the overall title with Jakob Schubert in second place and Romain Desgranges of France in third. 

Domen Skofic took 2nd place in Kranj and 1st overall, 190 kb
Domen Skofic took 2nd place in Kranj and 1st overall
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

With a strong performance in the final IFSC Lead World Cup, Slovenia overtook France in the National Team Ranking for Lead. France finished second above Austria.

IFSC World Cup Overall Results 2016

Men

  1. Domen Skofic
  2. Jakob Schubert
  3. Romain Desgranges

Men's lead overall podium, 140 kb
Men's lead overall podium
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Women

  1. Janja Garnbret
  2. Anak Verhoeven
  3. Jain Kim

Women's overall Lead podium, 132 kb
Women's overall Lead podium
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Combined Results (Boulder and Speed)

Men

  1. Sean McColl
  2. Jakob Schubert
  3. Kokoro Fujii

Men's combined podium (Boulder and Lead), 181 kb
Men's combined podium (Boulder and Lead)
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Women

  1. Janja Garnbret
  2. Akiyo Noguchi
  3. Jessica Pilz

Women's combined podium (Boulder and Lead), 118 kb
Women's combined podium (Boulder and Lead)
© Eddie Fowke/IFSC

Full results here.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Kranj (SLO) 2016

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Sebastian Halenke GER Top 37
2 Domen Skofic SLO Top 23+
3 Jakob Schubert AUT Top 20
4 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA Top 20
5 Dmitrii Fakiryanov RUS Top 20
6 Urban Primozic SLO 44+ 20
7 Romain Desgranges FRA Top 19+
8 Yuki HADA JPN 44+ 15+
9 Sean McColl CAN 44  
10 Thomas JOANNES FRA 38+  
11 Francesco Vettorata ITA 38+  
12 Max Rudigier AUT 36+  
13 Gautier Supper FRA 36+  
14 Masahiro HIGUCHI JPN 36  
15 Fedir Samoilov UKR 35+  
16 Jure Raztresen SLO 35+  
17 Tomoki MUSHA JPN 35  
18 Mario Lechner AUT 33  
19 Milan Preskar SLO 29+  
20 Taito Nakagami JPN 22+  
41 James Pope GBR Qual' 38 29.
45 William Bosi GBR Qual' 35+ 33.
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Anak VERHOEVEN BEL 44+ 48+
2 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 35+ 41
3 Janja Garnbret SLO Top 40+
4 Mina Markovic SLO 43 40+
5 Hannah Schubert AUT 39+ 31+
6 Jain Kim KOR 37 31+
7 Yuka Kobayashi JPN 31+ 25+
8 Mathilde Becerra FRA 33 21+
9 Julia Chanourdie FRA 29+  
10 Katharina Posch AUT 29+  
11 Katja KADIC SLO 29+  
12 Kajsa Rosen SWE 29  
13 Jessica Pilz AUT 28+  
14 Molly Thompson- Smith GBR 26+  
15 Aya ONOE JPN 26+  
15 Risa OTA JPN 26+  
17 Christine Schranz AUT 26  
18 Anne-Sophie Koller SUI 26  
19 Vita Lukan SLO 26  
20 Rebeka Kamin SLO 24+  
Full results


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