UKC

Ines Papert climbs, Scaramouche, alpine 8a MP, at Hoher Göll

Ines Papert on Scaramouche, alpine 8a MP, at Hoher Göll , 252 kb
Ines Papert on Scaramouche, alpine 8a MP, at Hoher Göll
© Frank Kretschmann
German climber Ines Papert has made a complete redpoint ascent of the Scaramouche, an 8a alpine multi-pitch on the West face of the Hoher Göll in the Berchtesgadener alps.

The route was opened in 1989 by Alexander and Thomas Huber and wasn't redpointed until 20 years later. It was the first alpine 8a in the Alps. It is considered to be one of the most technically demanding alpine routes in the region and has seen few redpoints. 

The eight pitches (8a/+, 7c, 7b+, 6b+, 7c+, 7b+, 7a, 7b+) are characterized by delicate slabs, reachy boulder sections, tiny crimps, finger pockets and athletic climbing. Protection is sparse and long runouts prevail. 

Scaramouche, alpine 8a MP, at Hoher Göll , 226 kb
Scaramouche, alpine 8a MP, at Hoher Göll
© Frank Kretschmann
Papert and her climbing partner Matthias Reiter found dry rock and a cool breeze on the morning of September 4th, and she managed to redpoint all pitches except the third on her first try of the day.

Papert says: I have spent about 10 to 14 days in the route over the past years. I have cursed, doubted, and laughed. Seldom have I climbed a route that was as technically demanding. My greatest respect goes to Thomas and Alexander for their first ascent of this wall, at that time, in that style, in one of the most beautiful walls of our planet, in Berchtesgaden.

Ines Papert is sponsored by: Arc'teryx, Black Diamond, Edelweiss, Julbo and Lowa

Scaramouche, alpine 8a MP, at Hoher Göll , 209 kb
Scaramouche, alpine 8a MP, at Hoher Göll
© Frank Kretschmann

 



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