Pete Dawson adds Something for Nothing 8c to Malham Cove

© Pete Dawson

Pete Dawson has continued ticking his way through Malham Cove by adding a variation to the finish of Cry Freedom (8c) 8b+, graded 8c and named Something for Nothing. Pete recently managed to tick Bat Route (8c)​ 8c on his third go and Unjustified 8b+/c in just two attempts (UKC News Report).

Pete Dawson on Something for Nothing 8c
© Pete Dawson

The route adds three quickdraws of alternative climbing from roughly two-thirds of the way up Cry Freedom, finishing with a boulder of about 7B difficulty. The line was originally bolted by Aaron Tonks and has attracted attention from a handful of climbers over the years.

Pete first tried the line a couple of weeks ago with Ted Kingsnorth and returned last weekend, making two serious redpoint attempts.

‘On both goes I got to the top boulder problem but had run out of power. One of the hardest parts was making this heel-toe cam stick right at the top and when I was pumped it was hard to be that accurate.

‘I went back with Chris Shepherd and Ted. For two more goes I fell on the top boulder problem, then Pete Chadwick suggested I could take a sneaky rest on a heel. This gave me enough to finish the route even though I was tired from two previous attempts. I skipped a quickdraw at the top so I had a five metre run out by the time I was through the crux.’

Pete recently moved to Manchester from Devon to begin his university studies and is clearly making the most of his new local limestone crags.

He added:

‘It was my first first ascent and to do it at such a well known crag is a real high point in my climbing so far. I chose the name because I thought it was a nice phrase and I feel like climbing gives me something for nothing in my life.’

Pete has been ticking grade 8 sport routes around Europe from a young age, with a particularly successful trip to Spain in 2014, where he climbed ten routes from 8a - 8b+ (UKC News Report).

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11 Nov, 2016
Quick ascents are all very nice but it's not really proper sport climbing is it... I want to hear about the highs, lows and self-doubt of 100 attempts. This guy needs to pull his finger out and try something hard. :)
11 Nov, 2016
Great achievement by Pete. If I could correct the report a bit, firstly, Cry Freedom is 8c in the new book and I'm not aware of anyone suggesting it goes back down to 8b+. Secondly, the route doesn't "add" on top of Cry Freedom, it's an alternative and harder finish leaving the route rightwards about 2/3rds of the way up. I think it might be a rather tough 8c!
11 Nov, 2016
Well apart from all the people that agreed that it was 8b+ before it was upgraded.
11 Nov, 2016
Well, I know it wasn't unanimous but I think the guidebook grades should be reported. This avoids descending into some kind of style hell where you're never quite sure whose "personal grade" is gospel this week. Edit: Also, slash grades, just say no.
11 Nov, 2016
Great work by Pete on the first ascent of this important new line! From having tried Something for Nothing myself, it is definitely a step up from Cry Freedom, although its worth noting that when it exits that route to go right up the hanging arete, there are still 7 or so awkward, tiring moves up the vague corner to reach the kneebar before the upper crux of Cry Freedom. Therefore, while the crux on Cry Freedom is significantly easier (anything from V6 - V8 depending greatly on your reach), it is higher. This is counterbalanced by the kneebar rest, which is pretty good, depending on how comfortable you are recovering in them. Something for Nothing has no rest before its crux other than the shakeout and heel rest at the tufa on Cry Freedom, just before it leaves that route, which is at best indifferent (depending on how much of an endurance beast you are I guess!) Time will tell on the grades of these routes. Cry Freedom has to be an easy 8c. I would not object if it went down to 8b+, although it would be the very top of that grade. For me, its certainly way easier than True North at Kilnsey, even taking into account the different style/steepness of the 2 routes. Also, recent hold changes on the upper crux of Cry Freedom in the last few years have made that bit a little easier than it used to be - basically the hold that you go again for with your right hand once you have taken your heel/ toe cam out of the pocket out left is bigger than it used to be (due to the rock crumbling away) and easier to slap to and catch. Also, the first crimp you do the big reach for before the heel/ toe cam goes in (that shorter climbers struggle on) has crumbled a little and got slightly bigger. That said, it all feels desparate when you're pumped out of your brains!
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