UKC

FRI NIGHT VIDEO - Pete Whittaker rope soloing on El Capitan

© Two Muppets

This week's video is an exerpt from a feature length film soon to be released of Pete Whittaker's 'all free' rope solo of Freerider (5.12d) on El Capitan. The route took Pete 20 hours and 6 minutes, beating the previous time of 4 days considerably. Pete originally flashed Freerider, making it the ideal route for him to attempt to rope solo.

Last year we asked Pete how he prepared for his attempt on Freerider. He told us: 

"A while back I gave Andy Kirkpatrick a Wide Boyz DVD, in return he gave me a solo technique book. At the time of the swap, I flicked through it, then sacked it off as it didn’t apply to me. However when I came back to this book, with the idea of climbing big stuff by myself, it turned out to be a complete gem of information. I think I read it 4 times cover to cover.

I bought the appropriate equipment then just started practising on the grit. Initially I had trouble with the device and ropes, but in a passing conversation with Andy he released another gem of information to me, which I don’t think is that important to most rope soloists who aid climb. But it completely changed it for me, as I wanted to free climb. I went from having a difficult time, to feeling like I could lead pitches nearly as comfortably as with a belayer.

After practising how to actually lead a pitch on the grit, I went to Squamish to learn how to do multipitch routes, in preparation for Big Walls in Yosemite."

You can read the entire interview here.

Pete is sponsored by: Climb On, Five Ten, Patagonia, Sterling Rope and Wild Country

 

Sheffield Adventure Film Festival 2017

You'll have the chance to see the feature length at ShAFF!

Sheffield Adventure Film Festival has a reputation for being a friendly festival, welcoming everyone whether you're an outdoors enthusiast or an armchair adventurer who just loves a good story.

As well as watching films, you can meet adventure sports athletes and filmmakers in the bar. There's also the Festival Fringe - a series of mainly free events for you to enjoy, as well as the Exhibition in the Workstation which is free and open to all.

Each summer Festival Director Matt Heason starts watching the hundreds and hundreds of films which are submitted to ShAFF. It's a labour of love. Around one hundred make the Official Selection each year. Matt's more than happy to give feedback on any films that don't make the final cut and we're particularly keen to work with producers to bring new talent to the screen, including young, up and coming directors, local producers and female filmmakers.

- Book tickets on the SHAFF WEBSITE

- Book tickets to see PETE'S TALK

 


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10 Mar, 2017
Absolutely incredible and the film looks great too. Looking forward to seeing him talk about this at Reading Climbing Centre tomorrow evening!
10 Mar, 2017
Love it when he touches the chain! Technical ability aside(!) it's hard to imagine anybody having the endurance to do this in only 20 something hours. The slightest bit of faff and you're (fatally?) behind. The nasty niggles of doubt? The ever-increasing fatigue. The onset of dehydration. Different climbing challenges, different styles... I wonder where he will take this to next. Some very big and very wild walls must beckon. Mick (who got gripped shitless on an SP on amenable terrain. Not its' fault - mine!)
10 Mar, 2017
Pete's never heard of 'doubt' Mick.
10 Mar, 2017
Legendary! excited to see the full film. That is a hell of an achievement
10 Mar, 2017
Brilliant! A lesson there for all of us - starting with me. Mick (whose Silent Partner sits in the shed, glowering at him).
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