Belgian climber and member of the notorious 'Wild Bunch', Nicolas Favresse, has established a seriously steep and hard new trad line in Yosemite Valley's Ribbon Falls alongside Alix Morris and Drew Smith. The 400m line has been named Eye of Sauron and features difficulties up to 7c+/8a, breaching a huge roof to the left of Gates of Delirium.
Can you stand looking in the "eye of Sauron" and me? It's all over the news on -- > http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/nicolas-favresse-adds-spectacular-new-trad-climb-in-yosemite.html @patagonia @patagoniaeurope @blackdiamond @scarpa_climb @lyofood @sterlingrope @julbo_eyewear Picture : Hiroki Yamamoto
The team used no bolts on the route, opting instead to use equalised nuts for the abseil points. Commenting on Instagram, Nico described the crux as follows: 'Its crux is one of the most unreal things I have ever climbed, with 3D climbing straight through a massive roof!' During his trip, Nico also managed a free ascent of the 35 pitch El Corazon 5.13b alongside Siebe Vanhee, swinging leads and completing the route in four days.
On the way to climb at Ribbon's fall with @_drew_smith_ we got side tracked by a massive roof. "What if there were cracks in it and it would be possible to free!!? " we thought. So we had to go and check it out and... It goes boys!!! @patagonia @patagoniaeurope @blackdiamond @lyofood @scarpa_climb @julbo_eyewear @sterlingrope photo @_drew_smith_
Nico is no stranger to new-routing in the storied Yosemite Valley. In 2005, he established L'A ppât 5.13a to the right of the Ribbon Falls and added The Secret Passage 5.13c to El Capitan in 2008 (UKC News report), both with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll. In 2006 Nico established Lost in Translation 5.12b/c, 400m in ground-up style in a single 27 hour push alongside Ivo Ninov, becoming the first team to make a first ascent in ground-up, alpine style on El Capitan.
Latest addition to Yosemite valley;-) The "Eye of Sauron" 400m at Ribbon's fall. Its crux is one of the most unreal thing I have ever climbed with 3D climbing straight through a massive roof! Thanks to @Alix Morris and @_drew_smith_ for sharing this adventure! Thank you @_drew_smith_ for the pictures!@patagonia @patagoniaeurope @blackdiamond @julbo_eyewear @scarpa_climb @sterlingrope @lyofood