Steve McClure on his 'pegless' ascent of Yma O Hyd, E10 7a
Once you decide to go 'pegless' you are kind of committed, you can't exactly grab a peg if you get tired, and with just cams on your rack it's gonna be a fiddly effort if you fluff a placement to try and clip a peg instead!
Comments
Really enjoyed that. Nice to see a video that is more than just achieving a goal.
Curious as to the style of ascent. How come some of the draws are in place ? placed whilst abbing in ? in which case did they really not know they were on 8b ?
I imagine the photographer might have had something to do with any pre placed draws, unless they are someone else's project draws, placed with the intention of returning.
Good question - the occasional draw is in place as we abbed the line (very roughly) in order to get down to the bottom and as it was so steep we needed to place the odd draw to keep ourselves in to the wall so as to reach each belay. Obviously it was far too long to do in one drop so we needed to make sure we didn't 'loose the wall', which we nearly did! The camera guys were also happy to have a quickdraw left here and there to grab too!
stemac