UKC

NEWSFLASH: Honnold and Caldwell climb The Nose in sub 2 Hours

Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell have set their third speed record on The Nose of El Capitan in the space of a week, breaking the 2 hour barrier that they had set their sights on, with a time of 1 hour, 58 minutes and 7 seconds (1:58:07). On 4th June, they stopped the clock after 2:01:53, just five days after they set a time of 2:10:15. That's over 2,600m (3 x ~880m) of Yosemite granite climbed at speed in the space of a week...

Hans Florine - the man who has notched up more El Cap ascents than anyone else - and a gathering of big wall enthusiasts have been spectating these speed attempts from the meadows. Accoding to Climbing.com, this was approximately the tenth ascent of the route by the pair in recent weeks as they fine-tuned their techniques and tactics. This new record is not far off Alex and Thomas Huber's 2003 speed record of 1 hour 51 minutes )1:51) on the 19 pitch Zodiac (~550m).

photo
The Nose speed record table.

Despite the excitement surrounding their efforts, the past few days in the Valley have proved bittersweet, following the news that two experienced big wall climbers, Tim Klein (42) and Jason Wells (45) fell to their deaths while climbing the Freeblast on Saturday.



Forums 88 comments

Isn’t this the Stovelegs? No, John. The Stovelegs Crack is out of sight below the bivvy ledge atop Dolt Tower; the very run-out climbing shown in the clip is in the section from Dolt to El Cap Tower.  
  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XG4ubEPPN7U   in case anyone hasn’t seen this. Fairly eye-opening. Isn’t this the Stovelegs? And isn’t that where Caldwell took a 100 footer practising? Interesting if so -...
That's nowt. Took my bro 2 hours mid-pitch  to work out how to second a tension traverse when jugging. ...never occurred to us that some aid techniques would be worth reading up on before getting on the wall.   For...
The Supertopo thread seems to have got back on course, after some moderation, with some good contributions. This one from John Long seems to address your post rather well: ...
That is exactly the thing. Why are so many armchair climbers telling them off to take the risk they wanted to take? If they're not interfering with others on the route, endangering them, then it's their free choice....
It was great fun. I agree it is not in the same league but the approach (planning, climbing quickly but safely, perhaps placing less gear and or using only one rope when you might prefer two, working as a team) makes...

Read more

This has been read 18,154 times
Return to Latest News