UKC

British Lead & Speed Climbing Championships 2018 - Report

The 2018 British Lead and Speed Climbing Championships took place at EICA Ratho near Edinburgh last weekend. Senior, junior and veteran categories competed alongside one another in EICA Ratho's atmospheric arena.

The British Lead and Speed Climbing Championships 2018., 230 kb
The British Lead and Speed Climbing Championships 2018.
© Paul Wood

Held over two days, the event began early on Saturday morning with qualifications for all categories, including the British Speed Climbing Championship (BSCC) qualification runs. The setting team was led by Chief Setter Yann Genoux, accompanied by Andy Long, Gavin Symonds, Max Ayrton, and Emma Twyford.

The senior male and female categories were hotly contested, with IFSC Lead World Cup finalists and semi-finalists in the mix: Will Bosi, Jim Pope, Molly Thompson-Smith and Hannah Slaney. Will dominated the event as the only male climber with two tops after the qualification round before setting a highpoint of 44+ in the finals. This score was impressively matched by 16-year-old Hamish McArthur, who made his senior category debut with style, placing just ahead of seasoned senior competitor, Jim Pope.

photo
Molly Thompson-Smith on her way to a win.
© Paul Wood

16-year-old Emily Phillips set a highpoint at the second-to-last hold, putting the pressure on Molly and Hannah. Both women smoothly topped-out, resulting in the win for Molly on countback to the qualifying routes, where she topped both climbs. Molly's win is all the more impressive considering her break from training and competing following her severe finger injury and subsequent surgery earlier this year.

In the Speed finals, Will Bosi beat fellow Scot Max Milne into second place, earning his second British title of the weekend and setting a new British Speed record at 7.47 seconds. Alex Waterhouse placed third.

In the women's final, GB team member Jen Wood took the win ahead of Emily Phillips in an exciting race. Pippa Watkin completed the podium in 3rd.

Full results of the Lead events here.

Lead

Senior

Men

1. Will Bosi
2. Hamish McArthur
3. Jim Pope

Senior Male Lead podium., 185 kb
Senior Male Lead podium.
© BMC

Women

1. Molly Thompson-Smith
2. Hannah Slaney
3. Emily Phillips

Senior Female Lead podium., 193 kb
Senior Female Lead podium.
© BMC

Junior

Youth A

Male

1. Finley Wood
2. Stephen Keir
3. Samuel Butterworth

Female

1. Hannah Smith
2. Emma Davidson
3. Martha Lubczynskyj

Youth B

Male

1. Daniel Smith
2. Alfie Duckworth
3. Tai Tewkesbury

Female

1. Katherine MacDougall
2. Tilly Vasic
3. Louise Flockhart

Youth C

Male

1. Jack MacDougall
2. Tom Healy
3. Oscar Phillips

Female

1. Gwen Morgan
2. Willow Petrobelli
3. Katie Roberts

Veteran

Men

1. Liu Yi-De
2. Neil Shepherd
3. Simon Tilley

Women

1. Koon Morris

Speed

The speed event attracted bigger numbers ahead of Tokyp 2020., 202 kb
The speed event attracted bigger numbers ahead of Tokyp 2020.
© Paul Wood

Senior

Men

1. Will Bosi
2. Max Milne
3. Alex Waterhouse

Women

1. Jen Wood
2. Emily Phillips
3. Pippa Watkin

Junior

Male

1. Samuel Butterworth
2. Stephen Keir
3. Hamish McArthur

Female

1. Louise Flockhart
2. Emma Davidson
3. Tilly Vasic



Forums 13 comments

The main explanation for the sudden drop after age 20ish is the financial/career/social aspect. If and most likely when you no longer have your parents driving you around, funding competitions and training becomes more...
I have a feeling there's 2 reasons for this... People in this age bracket that are climbing at a high-ish standard, or just really into climbing, seem more interested in climbing outside (that's maybe just the crowd...
senior 18+ (barring for a couple of younger exceptions) and vets 45+ (but in practice more like 50+) Edit: Most of the seniors seem to be a grouped near the 18 end of the 18-45 spectrum. In reality it was more like a...
The route is a standard IFSC speed route. (Official) records can only be set on homologated, IFSC-approved walls.  List here: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/item/259-ifsc-official-speed-holds-list...
In the Speed finals, Will Bosi beat fellow Scot Max Milne into second place, earning his second British title of the weekend and setting a new British Speed record at 7.47 seconds How can you have a record on what I...

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