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/ NEWS: British Lead & Speed Climbing Championships 2018 - Report

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UKC News - on 11 Oct 2018
The 2018 British Lead and Speed Climbing Championships took place at EICA: Ratho, near Edinburgh last weekend. Senior, junior and veteran categories competed alongside one another in EICA: Ratho's atmospheric arena.

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BelleVedere on 11 Oct 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Would be interesting to see some of the other times for the speed too. 

In reply to BelleVedere:

There's no speed results in the BMC round-up, but I'll try and find them out.

Southvillain - on 11 Oct 2018
In reply to UKC News:

In the Speed finals, Will Bosi beat fellow Scot Max Milne into second place, earning his second British title of the weekend and setting a new British Speed record at 7.47 seconds

How can you have a record on what I presume are non-standard routes/lengths? Or are the routes always the same?

In reply to Southvillain:

The route is a standard IFSC speed route. (Official) records can only be set on homologated, IFSC-approved walls. 

List here: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/item/259-ifsc-official-speed-holds-list

More info: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/sport-department/speed-project

Post edited at 15:09
arthurwellsley - on 11 Oct 2018
In reply to UKC News:

What is the age difference between Senior and Veteran in these competitions?

JLS on 11 Oct 2018
In reply to arthurwellsley:

senior 18+ (barring for a couple of younger exceptions) and vets 45+ (but in practice more like 50+)

Edit: Most of the seniors seem to be a grouped near the 18 end of the 18-45 spectrum. In reality it was more like a kids comp with only a hand full of compeditors over 25. Which is sort of interesting that for the most part the 25-35 group don't seem to be competitive in the sport in the uk. 

Post edited at 22:26
Southvillain - on 12 Oct 2018
In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

Thanks. Makes it even duller than I'd thought!

In reply to JLS:

> Which is sort of interesting that for the most part the 25-35 group don't seem to be competitive in the sport in the uk. 

I have a feeling there's 2 reasons for this... People in this age bracket that are climbing at a high-ish standard, or just really into climbing, seem more interested in climbing outside (that's maybe just the crowd that I know though).

I think an even bigger factor though is to do with the generation gap. I'm 28 and grew up comp climbing as a youth for about 8 years old until my early teens. There's been a astronomical jump in standards between someone my age and someone 10 years younger than me at 18. The senior category is now getting the first generation of climbers who have grown up with proper training/modern walls from a young age and it definitely shows!

Post edited at 19:48
In reply to Martin McKenna - UKC:

It’s worth pointing out though that the handsome, talented and well-liked chap in 10th place is 42...

In reply to Martin McKenna - UKC:

The main explanation for the sudden drop after age 20ish is the financial/career/social aspect. If and most likely when you no longer have your parents driving you around, funding competitions and training becomes more difficult. Most people will need to start working or head to university and it suddenly gets a lot harder to compete and be competitive as an adult. Of course, at this time in life other stuff gets in the way, too - work, socialising, relationships, career, moving away from home etc. Thankfully there appears to be growing support for young climbers today as the sport becomes more mainstream.

Martin - we both know what it's like when Dad's Taxi retires, don't we? ;)

Post edited at 20:55
Wft on 21:07 Mon
In reply to midgets of the world unite:

> It’s worth pointing out though that the handsome, talented and well-liked chap in 10th place is 42...

4/5 facts correct 

 

planetmarshall on 21:17 Mon
In reply to JLS:

> senior 18+ (barring for a couple of younger exceptions) and vets 45+ (but in practice more like 50+)

Participation in the veterans category seems pretty thin, particularly the women. With only two entrants that's basically some free third place swag for someone.

JLS on 21:35 Mon
In reply to planetmarshall:

Yeah, not a lot of intrest from the vets. Both male and female vet winners were very deserving winners. Shame there wasn't much of a field to highlight just how well they were climbing.

 

Graeme Alderson on 11:37 Tue
In reply to Wft:

Which fact are you disputing ;-)

Ally Smith on 13:58 Tue
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

> Which fact are you disputing ;-)

Can't call him handsome with those teeth!

Wft on 16:10 Tue
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

> Which fact are you disputing ;-)

and that’s the game 

Graeme Alderson on 16:44 Tue
In reply to Wft:

Well I like him, he is very talented (finalist at FBO a couple of years back as well as flashing Font 7c+, in Font, yonks ago). I expect him to be around 42. So that leaves 2 options


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