Seb Bouin has made the second ascent of Adam Ondra's Move (9b/+) at Flatanger, Norway. The route is 55m long and can be divided into three sections: 20m of 8b that leads to a kneebar rest, followed by 20m of 8c+/9a to an uncomfortable knee bar and finally a very bouldery and intense 9a for the final 15m.
Seb belayed Adam when he made the first ascent in 2013 and it's been a 'long journey' since then. He started working the route in 2016-17, taking five trips of 2-3 weeks each. For most of his trips, he went to Flatanger alone and tried to find climbing partners at the crag. Seb describes this as 'a superb opportunity to meet people and share your passions and emotions,' although there was added pressure when he was unable to find partners.
Seb told UKC about his motivation for the route: 'Move is one of the hardest routes in the world, but that was not my first motivation. I chose this route because it's a MEGA LINE, it's hard and beautiful, and I was inspired. I learnt a lot during this Journey, about myself, about injuries, about pressure, about climbing, and about life. That's why doing this route is the icing on the cake.'
The route was Seb's first route in this grade range. He has previously climbed three other 9bs and believes Move is his hardest to date: 'I have no experience in 9b+ grades. So, It could be easy 9b+, Adam was thinking 9b+ but said 9b/+ because this route is not so much his style, or super hard 9b. I think the 9b/+ grade could be a good one. Let see with the next repeats.'
What's next for Seb?
'Now it's time to…. check another project. The one to the right looks like a good one! It's called Silence.'