UKC

Seb Bouin on ACL (9b)Fri Night Vid

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This week's Friday Night Video is the first in Seb Bouin's new series called 'Hard Sends.' He takes us to Pic Saint Loup near his home in France, where he attempts the first ascent of ACL (9b), a route he bolted in memory of his grandfather.

Seb had this to say on the route:

'Pic Saint Loup is a special place to me. This crag is on the top of the highest mountain in the region, looking down into the valley. The view is incredible, there is a unique atmosphere up there. The approach is tough, but the crag really makes it worthwhile. It reminds mesomehow of Clark Mountain and Jumbo Love. A wild place with a stunning wall.

'I live close to this crag, and it's such an amazing playground for me. I bolted ACL five years ago, in memory of my grandfather. It's a fantastic line in a fantastic place. Working the route was a good opportunity to keep him close to me during all these years. ACL means Ariegeois Coeur Loyal, which was a name bestowed upon my grandfather by the Compagnons du Devoir when he became a master
carpenter.

'ACL goes straight up the middle of the Pic Saint Loup wall, on the most overhanging part. This route combines two 9a's (5.14d's). The first one is quite physical and takes a lot of energy out of you. The second one is trickier and resistance climbing. The real difficulty is in completing the first section with enough energy in reserve to send the second 9a.'


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Seb is one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world with many hard routes including quite a few in the 9a-9b range under his belt including Mamichula, Chilam Balam and his own Les...

Seb's Athlete Page 45 posts 17 videos




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