Below we have the film of Steve McClure climbing GreatNess Wall (E10 7a) which was filmed by Keith Sharples. He was going to take pictures but thought a fall from the last move would look far better. Fortunately for Steve, he climbed the route...
Speaking to UKC, Steve described the route as 'a total face climb, plum vertical, 18m high, with a horizontal break crossing the whole cliff at about 12m. This break divides the route into two completely different halves, fortunately with an excellent (preplaced) thread. Poor footholds with fast hand moves between the bad edges, hard foot swaps, where if your feet go you are absolutely certainly out of there! There is nowhere to stop or think or compose yourself as you gain distance from the lonely thread below...'
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Return to Latest NewsSteve McClure is one of the best rock climbers in the world, having climbed the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b, numerous new routes at the grade of 9a and onsighted many at 8b+. Despite being better known for his...
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Yesterday we reported that Steve McClure had made the first ascent of the headwall project at Nesscliffe. Steve named the route Greatness Wall and graded it E10 7a. The project has been attempted by Nesscliffe legend Nick Dixon and has since seen ...
Steve McClure has made the first ascent of the now infamous headwall project at Nesscliffe naming it GreatNess Wall and grading it E10 7a. The route has seen a great deal of attention recently, most notably from James McHaffie who...
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Comments
Wow .... fantastic effort ... scary lead 🙀🥶
What grade does it get if you don't use a boulder mat, and actually place the crucial gear on lead?
The top gear at the break is an in situ thread and the bottom wall is v easy compared to the top bit, so I’d hazard a guess at E10 7A.
Why use the mat then if it doesn't make the route any safer?
But to answer the second bit of Scope's question?