Steve McClure climbs GreatNess Wall (E10 7a) at NesscliffeNewsflash

© Keith Sharples

Steve McClure has made the first ascent of the now infamous headwall project at Nesscliffe, naming it GreatNess Wall and grading it E10 7a. The route has seen a great deal of attention recently, most notably from James McHaffie who came close to success before taking a monster fall from near the top.

Speaking to UKC, Steve described the route as 'a total face climb, plum vertical, 18m high, with a horizontal break crossing the whole cliff at about 12m. This break divides the route into two completely different halves, fortunately with an excellent (preplaced) thread. Poor footholds with fast hand moves between the bad edges, hard foot swaps, where if your feet go you are absolutely certainly out of there! There is nowhere to stop or think or compose yourself as you gain distance from the lonely thread below...'

Nesscliffe legend Nick Dixon first looked at the project several years ago and told UKC that the route features 'a whole lot of 6c moves to gain only about 5m of height' and a crux which equates to a V10/11 boulder problem. Nick said 'Steve's ascent is magic for Nesscliffe and really inspirational. I am really pleased that Ness now hosts one of the UK's top difficulty routes. Mega.'

Here's a short clip of James McHaffie falling off the project a couple of weeks ago:

We've been in touch with Steve and will have a full report tomorrow.

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Steve McClure is one of the best rock climbers in the world, having climbed the hardest sport route in the UK at 9b, numerous new routes at the grade of 9a and onsighted many at 8b+. Despite being better known for his...

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28 May, 2019


28 May, 2019

I've not seen that clip of Caff taking a whip before! Does his helmet come off!?

Impressive work as always Mr McClure :)

28 May, 2019


28 May, 2019

It really is... especially for those of a similar age to Steve!

28 May, 2019

That's some fall! Looked well painful. The move was super committed too. Those guys who operate at that level are so impressive. At my own grade but faced with a run-out thrice this one and I am all 70s disco and whimpering away/blowing like a steam train.

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