Lake District climber Anna Taylor has climbed Disorderly Conduct (E8 6c) (E8 6c) at Reecastle Crag. The route was first climbed by Adam Hocking in 1997 and takes a bold, direct line up the steep wall near Daylight Robbery (E6 6c).
A few days before her ascent, Anna had a 'quick play' on the moves. She quickly ruled out going for the lead that day due to the heat and lack of skin. She returned two days later and after a flat tyre they arrived with little time:
'It was still quite humid, so I gave it a quick brush, top roped it once, then went for the lead. I climbed up the first steep section to place the crucial gear (an RP and a few small cams), then down-climbed to the ground for a quick rest before getting back on. Whilst the gear wasn't as good as I'd hoped it might have been, I really enjoyed the lead. I found the moves hard, but they all felt quite secure, so I didn't think I'd fall off as long as I pulled hard.'
As a self-confessed slab climber, Anna found the steep climbing a slight shock to the system and despite the route not being her prefered style, she managed to dispatch:
'It was nice to get it done quickly, particularly as the holds are really sharp and I was bleeding by the time I got to the rest jug where the hard climbing ends. Thankfully after that, it's easy with good gear so I could just enjoy it to the top!'
Anna has been on top form in recent months, ticking multiple E6's and E7's around the country. She seems to gravitate towards the bold, often unprotectable routes which require solo ascents and a cool head. You can follow Anna's climbing in her logbook here.
Comments