James Squire has had a productive trip to Rocklands, South Africa, ticking Spray of Light, a Font 8C first climbed by Daniel Woods in 2015. The problem has been repeated by a number of strong climbers including Dave Graham and Shawn Raboutou. The route is a hard version of the classic Klem Loskot problem Ray of Light which links two 8B boulder problems together.
James told UKC: 'This year I wanted to focus less on ticking a large volume of boulders and more on trying to climb a single hard problem. This is challenging when you are in Rocklands and there are so many world class lines everywhere! I had a few sessions on this boulder last year and after spending a long time finding a sequence that works, I was able to finish it off on my second session this trip. Happy would be an understatement.'
Below is a video of James climbing the problem:
Spray of Light 8C / V15 Can't express how happy I am to have climbed this amazing boulder today! Two sessions this trip and a few days trying it last year. So psyched! 🙏❤️ @lasportivauk @petzl_official @lyonequipment @sublimeclimbing @bananafingersuk @epictvclimbing #bouldering #climbing #rocklands #southafrica
Despite focussing so much of his attention on Spray of Light, James managed to sneak in ascents of The Arch (8B), Skadoosh (8B+), Industry of Cool (8A+/B), Steak House (8A+), Green Mamba (8A+) and Quintessential (8B).
The Vault was an old project on the steep Carnage Wall at Hartland Quay that starts to the right of Supercede. James said: 'The whole wall is made up of perfect wave washed slopers which creates a powerful and tensiony climbing style. We had some crazy days in February when it felt almost 25 degrees but the humidity was still very low. I headed down and after a few hours, I managed to figure out some beta and climb the project. One of the highest quality boulders I have ever put up!'
Wow what an incredible day at Hartland. This video is the first ascent of The Vault [8B/+] which has got to be one of the highest quality boulders I've ever put up. I was also lucky enough to climb Supercede [8A+] and People of the Shire [8A+]. Psyched for more 🙏 @lasportivagram @lyonequipment @sublimeclimbing @petzl_official #bouldering #climbing #hartland #southwest #firstascent
Keep it Real was a different beast altogether. In 2014, James climbed the roof on the right-hand side of the cave (Bat Bites Back 7C+) but a few months later a crucial jug fell off leaving a hard project in its place. James tried to work a sequence for several years before he found a suitable method: 'I discovered you could do a large move to a sidepull above your head. Six sessions later I had climbed the project. I couldn't believe it.'
Keep It Real [8B+] 💯 Finally finished off this great project at Biblins today. Spent a total of three sessions last season and three sessions this season to put this thing together. South Africa in two weeks... PSYCHED 🙏❤️💎 @lasportivauk @petzl_official @sublimeclimbing @lyonequipment #bouldering #climbing #project #firstascent