Seb Bouin repeats Patanics and suggests downgrade to 9a+

© Julia Cassou

Seb Bouin has made the second ascent of Jorge Diaz Rullo's Patanics at Rodellar. Rullo graded the route 9b, although Bouin has suggested a grade of 9a/+ when compared to his recent ascents of Mamichula (9b), Move (9b/+) and La Rage d'Adam (9b/+).

Bouin on Patanics which was first climbed by Jorge Diaz Rullo  © Julia Cassou
Bouin on Patanics which was first climbed by Jorge Diaz Rullo
© Julia Cassou

On his second day attempting Patanics, Bouin fell on the last move of the route. His idea of completing the route the following day was scuppered by rain and he eventually reworked his sequence to avoid the wet sections. That wasn't the only hindrance; Bouin managed to get a piece of metal lodged in his eye, landing him in A&E and forcing him to wear an eye patch for a few days.

'I tried climbing with only one eye, yet it was impossible to do 7b... I finally decided to remove the patch for a try in Patanics and it was the good one.

'The route is 100% my style, that's why my opinion is to propose a downgrade to a 9a+. But it's my opinion, and I am open to discuss with next repeaters.'

Seb has been on a sport climbing rampage this year and in April managed to repeat Ondra's Mamichula (9b) at Oliana, shortly followed by Move (9b/+) at Flatanger in June.

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Seb is one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world with many hard routes including quite a few in the 9a-9b range under his belt including Mamichula, Chilam Balam and his own Les...

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